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      02-25-2017, 10:28 PM   #1
ONE_slow_m5
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No boost and modified m5. Need some help

So a little history. 2013 m5 30k on the clock.
Bought the car stock didn't feel all that powerful compared to my S/c m3 on the drive home after picking it up. Thought its just a heavier car. The next day car went in for Oil pan gasket upper and lower. Got it back a few days later and got to working on it. Installed pure stage 2 turbos, AMS *********, meisterschaft exhaust. The car felt very slow and i thought its because larger turbos and no tune. SO a few days later the jb4 came in the mail with the BCM USB OB2.

Jb4 got installed. 2 wires to both TMap sensors. Ground wire to shock bolt, 1 green BCM to left boost solenoid under there the passenger intercooler and purple one to the one next to it. OBd2 ran to port. Connected car to laptop was a success. Map switching from steering wheel is fine. Went for a drive and surely still no power. Did a log in map 2. Targeting 22 list and car is only making 2-3 psi under WOT. Map 4 does the same thing.

Things i have done to trouble shoot.
1) check both vacuum lines to turbos are connected.
2) checked Vband from turbo to manifolds and DP
3) plugged the Vacuum lines for the exhaust to keep them shut.
4) checked my stock Charge pipe for cracks and make sure they are tight with worm clamps.

I am pretty much out of ideas on where else to look. Car feels like ****! Short log below
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      02-26-2017, 09:12 AM   #2
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Have you checked for any leaks on the pipes? Make sure the clamps are firmly on; higher boost levels may cause damage to the clamps which may in turn create a leak which may explain your low psi's. BMW factory pipes not the best IMO when running elevated boost levels; a friend here in South Florida recently went through the same thing.

I know #4 says you've already done this but this is the most obvious area to check; you may just want to replace the pipes and see if that resolves it; often difficult to see leaks in all parts of the pipes.

Good luck; hope this helps.
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CURRENT: 22' INDIVIDUAL M5| CHALK | TARTUFO | CCB | MPE | H&R | IND
GONE: 19' M5C| SINGAPORE GREY| ARAGON|VELOS VLS-06|H&R|iPE|IND|XPEL|CF|RADENSO
GONE: 15' F10 M5|BSM|BLACK|VELOS VSS-S2|KW|AKRA|IND|CF |ESCORT 360|VELOS PIGGY
GONE: 13' F10 M5|SG|BLACK|AKRA|KW|IND
LONG GONE: 09' E60 M5|02' E39 M5
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      02-26-2017, 08:03 PM   #3
ONE_slow_m5
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Car has never made anything over 5psi to ruin them..
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      02-26-2017, 10:19 PM   #4
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Are you the first owner?
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CURRENT: 22' INDIVIDUAL M5| CHALK | TARTUFO | CCB | MPE | H&R | IND
GONE: 19' M5C| SINGAPORE GREY| ARAGON|VELOS VLS-06|H&R|iPE|IND|XPEL|CF|RADENSO
GONE: 15' F10 M5|BSM|BLACK|VELOS VSS-S2|KW|AKRA|IND|CF |ESCORT 360|VELOS PIGGY
GONE: 13' F10 M5|SG|BLACK|AKRA|KW|IND
LONG GONE: 09' E60 M5|02' E39 M5
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      02-26-2017, 11:15 PM   #5
ONE_slow_m5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josec70 View Post
Are you the first owner?
no second.
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      02-27-2017, 12:06 AM   #6
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Do you have an aftermarket exhaust? If you do you have to make sure the oem valve activation tube is plugged. If you don't it will result in leak preventing boost from building.

Edit: nvm see you plugged them.
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      02-27-2017, 07:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
no second.
Just saying that if you already received the car in limp mode who knows what the previous owner may have done.

Still leaning towards thinking the pipes are the issue but you may want to take to a dealer or shop for further analysis.

Good luck brother.
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CURRENT: 22' INDIVIDUAL M5| CHALK | TARTUFO | CCB | MPE | H&R | IND
GONE: 19' M5C| SINGAPORE GREY| ARAGON|VELOS VLS-06|H&R|iPE|IND|XPEL|CF|RADENSO
GONE: 15' F10 M5|BSM|BLACK|VELOS VSS-S2|KW|AKRA|IND|CF |ESCORT 360|VELOS PIGGY
GONE: 13' F10 M5|SG|BLACK|AKRA|KW|IND
LONG GONE: 09' E60 M5|02' E39 M5
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      02-27-2017, 01:35 PM   #8
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Any codes thrown?
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      02-27-2017, 07:18 PM   #9
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if you dont have any fault code
please try to update your dme software
and read for fault code too
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      02-27-2017, 08:43 PM   #10
ONE_slow_m5
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Took the car apart again today, CP and intakes off, Hooked up a vacuum pump and gauge to both turbos, on idle 1-2 psi vacuum and it flutters. tried to apple 10 psi of vacuum to each actuator separately and found that the driver turbo will not close the actuator. Will not move with a vacuum pump. Wont even build 1 psi. The left turbo closes just fine with 8-10 psi. When i unplug the right turbo(drive side) and plug in a Golf T the car build 10 psi vacuum on idle. Came to conclusion the actuator is bad. The turbos were bought in january and were on a clients car for less than 1000 miles before he sold them to me. Since I'm not the original owner they won't "warranty " it so... i had to buy another actuator. Hopefully this will take care of it. Will update when i get it in. Jesse with pure turbo was helpful. Just wish they would have warrantied it since they are less than a month or 2 old.
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      09-19-2017, 01:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo_JUNK View Post
Took the car apart again today, CP and intakes off, Hooked up a vacuum pump and gauge to both turbos, on idle 1-2 psi vacuum and it flutters. tried to apple 10 psi of vacuum to each actuator separately and found that the driver turbo will not close the actuator. Will not move with a vacuum pump. Wont even build 1 psi. The left turbo closes just fine with 8-10 psi. When i unplug the right turbo(drive side) and plug in a Golf T the car build 10 psi vacuum on idle. Came to conclusion the actuator is bad. The turbos were bought in january and were on a clients car for less than 1000 miles before he sold them to me. Since I'm not the original owner they won't "warranty " it so... i had to buy another actuator. Hopefully this will take care of it. Will update when i get it in. Jesse with pure turbo was helpful. Just wish they would have warrantied it since they are less than a month or 2 old.
Im going through a similar problem, my car is several Lbs under max boost of 22. Have not done Boost leak tests or anything (will do soon), but my car has 48,000 miles and i thought about boost actuators as well. Let me know if you got things fixed
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      09-19-2017, 05:45 PM   #12
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I have done many tests on the vacuum pump, boost solenoids and the actuators. Here is how it SHOULD work and the order you should debug:

1. If you measure vacuum at the pump (near the firewall on the left-rear of the engine and easily accessible), you should see around 20psi vacuum at the pump.
2. You need a JB4 (with BCM) or INPA to actuate the boost solenoids.... so skip this step if you don't have that
- Connect a vacuum gauge to the hoses from the boost solenoid to the WG and then actuate 100% PWM... should see roughly 12-15psi vacuum
- The ONLY way to do this without INPA or the BCM is to 'T' the line and run it into the car and drive WOT
3. Check (with a vacuum tool) the WG operation. It should start closing around 8-10psi vacuum

If you don't see these values, then start checking hoses to the exhaust flappers and the vacuum canister under the motor. The s63tu doesn't get vacuum from the manifolds.. its an independent pump.
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      11-15-2022, 08:50 PM   #13
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Anyone figure anything out in this thread?
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