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      02-27-2017, 03:20 PM   #67
M5 London
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serhat06 View Post
remove any part that connects suspention to subframe,
remove stabil. arm,
remove oil cooler and lines.
remove both side fenderliners
remove both side water coolers ( helps to remove lower front suspention arm bolt)
remove steering rack from subframe you can leave the steering oil lines on but it is easier if you remove whole steering rack.
secure engine with a engine jack or use that tool you put on fenders. engine lift points are one in front easy to locate second behind rear left engine computer, remove all engine harrness end engine computer from its bracket so it doest brake when you lift up the engine. no need to remove cooling lines.
remove bolts between radiator support and subframe
remove engine mound bolts
remove all subframe bolts
remove harness on lower oil pan ( oil pressure or temp sensor and oil level sensor,
remove lower oil pan,
remove oil pump
remove upper oil pan (also tranmission bolts holding together)
you need to remove the sponge between tranmission and oil pan in order to access rear bolts.

use inpa for torque specs.
use loctite for upper oil pan bolts the ones stay inside the oil pan ( i used on all of them)
when you remove connecting rod caps you need to buy new bolts.

good luck.
but dkg clutch makes rattle noise too. make you you remove all bottom covers and listen to it from lower end. connecting rod noise will make complete different noise then anything else. also check your oil for metal flakes.

the total job takes about 10-15 hours no lift including replacement of each bearing shells.


Great post !!!
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      02-28-2017, 10:48 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by TopEnd View Post
Good work.. did you complete the service?
Yes i did. And i made sofar 1000 miles verry soon ill be doing a oil change to inspect it ill input updates.
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      02-28-2017, 07:12 PM   #69
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Strong work!
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      03-02-2017, 01:05 PM   #70
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rod bearing failure

hey guys, i noticed this is active as of recent. My 550 with the n63 (apparently same bearings as s63) developed a small rod knock on one cylinder and i parked it. I am going to be doing he bearing replacement this weekend. Is this a common issue? or should i look for a possible cause..

any tips or tricks??
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      03-03-2017, 11:39 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basemodel325 View Post
hey guys, i noticed this is active as of recent. My 550 with the n63 (apparently same bearings as s63) developed a small rod knock on one cylinder and i parked it. I am going to be doing he bearing replacement this weekend. Is this a common issue? or should i look for a possible cause..

any tips or tricks??
check oil, measure oil quantity , if bearings too bad ,check oil pump or replace it, check some of main bearings. inspect crankshaft very well. if you have spun bearing witch is uncommon i think, you may need to replace more parts then.
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      03-03-2017, 11:42 AM   #72
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Definitely checking crank Over very well. Just now threw it on the lift.
How do I check oil pump?
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      03-03-2017, 04:23 PM   #73
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Can I ask an honest question. I'm considering either an M5 or a 6 gran coupe next (buy in a month or so) and some of these comments suggest that the M5 engine is a fragile bag of spanners?? Is it really that bad or only is someone has been really stupid and / or badly mistreated the engine?

Spending a rather large lump of cash here in the U.K. Last thing I want to do is buy into a 10k plus repair bill.

Are they that bad or is this the paranoia brigade telling me to change the oil every 3k and analyse it so I can sleep at night (F that, I buy a car to work much like my fellow board members pay me to work).

For reference I'm looking at a 2014 M5 and a 2013 to 2015 640d gran coupe M-Sport. All low miles...

Or alternatively tell me to get real!
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      03-03-2017, 05:34 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basemodel325 View Post
Definitely checking crank Over very well. Just now threw it on the lift.
How do I check oil pump?
disassembly and check for scratches etc.
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      03-03-2017, 05:42 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamese93 View Post
Can I ask an honest question. I'm considering either an M5 or a 6 gran coupe next (buy in a month or so) and some of these comments suggest that the M5 engine is a fragile bag of spanners?? Is it really that bad or only is someone has been really stupid and / or badly mistreated the engine?

Spending a rather large lump of cash here in the U.K. Last thing I want to do is buy into a 10k plus repair bill.

Are they that bad or is this the paranoia brigade telling me to change the oil every 3k and analyse it so I can sleep at night (F that, I buy a car to work much like my fellow board members pay me to work).

For reference I'm looking at a 2014 M5 and a 2013 to 2015 640d gran coupe M-Sport. All low miles...

Or alternatively tell me to get real!
there are thousands of m5 s out there and most of them passed 40k miles. and there are only 10-20 i have read that had bearing issues. every engine brand has cons and pros, you buy an amg never experience bearing problem, but you have chain issues specially on 6.3s, im sure 640d is more reliable then a mpowered engine. if you arent ready to spend big money for maintenance problems etc stay away from m. this is my personal opinion.
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      03-03-2017, 07:05 PM   #76
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Not an issue. Very small failure rate and well in line with all other premium brand marques.

These are very robust engines both standard and tuned properly.

Change the oil regularly, just use the manufactures recommendation as the max mileage and then go with your head or heart on your actual interval. There are benefits of changing oil early but no garranties.

Buy with confidence, if worried get a warranty.
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      03-05-2017, 10:06 AM   #77
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So I tore my n63 down to fix rod bearings and inspect. Surprisingly easy job.

Any ways the back two cylinders rod bearings were spun. I'm wondering what caused this, oil starvation on that journal ??
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      03-06-2017, 11:31 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basemodel325 View Post
So I tore my n63 down to fix rod bearings and inspect. Surprisingly easy job.

Any ways the back two cylinders rod bearings were spun. I'm wondering what caused this, oil starvation on that journal ??
you can try to slide out one of main bearings, by removing the cap. wo needing to remove crankshaft. can you input some pics.
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      04-02-2017, 10:11 AM   #79
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just did one more oil change looks good so far.
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      04-02-2017, 12:46 PM   #80
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How's the filter? Any remaining 'sparkles'?
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      04-02-2017, 04:58 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Fast400 View Post
How's the filter? Any remaining 'sparkles'?
no it was clean thanks god!
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      04-05-2017, 05:51 PM   #82
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Since "Starting your car is a terrible thing to do", does anyone know if there is a correlation between the "stop/start" feature and the worn bearings?

I never use the feature (think it's silly in an M car) but wondering if some of the cars with the bearing issues used the stop/start feature regularly? I ask this because most main bearing wear in a good running and well maintained engine occurs at start-up when the crank has settled and is resting on the cap bearings from not running.

Last edited by DaveCM5; 04-06-2017 at 11:30 AM..
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      04-10-2017, 01:14 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCM5 View Post
Since "Starting your car is a terrible thing to do", does anyone know if there is a correlation between the "stop/start" feature and the worn bearings?

I never use the feature (think it's silly in an M car) but wondering if some of the cars with the bearing issues used the stop/start feature regularly? I ask this because most main bearing wear in a good running and well maintained engine occurs at start-up when the crank has settled and is resting on the cap bearings from not running.
since it happened to me right after i bought it, i dont know. but i did coded out right away so it doesn't keep turning off. i wish there where a black box in the car where you could read all data from the past
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      04-12-2017, 06:09 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serhat06 View Post
since it happened to me right after i bought it, i dont know. but i did coded out right away so it doesn't keep turning off. i wish there where a black box in the car where you could read all data from the past
Coding it out is one way to do it but there is a start/stop enable button which is part of the starter button that if you push it an orange light comes on on the starter button and that disables it as well. The car will remember after shut down so once it is pressed it never does it unless you press the start/stop enable button again.
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      04-17-2017, 03:58 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCM5 View Post
Coding it out is one way to do it but there is a start/stop enable button which is part of the starter button that if you push it an orange light comes on on the starter button and that disables it as well. The car will remember after shut down so once it is pressed it never does it unless you press the start/stop enable button again.
I believe a stock non coded car will not remember your choice. You'll need to code it to then start remembering your choice.
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      04-20-2017, 04:17 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by M5 London View Post
I believe a stock non coded car will not remember your choice. You'll need to code it to then start remembering your choice.
My car (A US car) has never been coded for it and remembers the last state, and the owners manual states specifically that it will remember the last selected state.

See manual page below... "Semi-Automatic mode"

-Dave
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      04-23-2017, 06:48 AM   #87
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Monitoring rod bearing life is part of an owning an M it seems. The e39 and e60 M's all have this issue. Oil tests and listening for knock is part of ownership. It's what needs to be done avoid catastrophic failure on these cars unfortunately.
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      04-24-2017, 10:18 PM   #88
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Has anyone tried or have any thoughts on oil additives, like Militec-1, as a way to prevent bearing wear?
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