02-03-2020, 08:33 PM | #1 |
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013 BMW M5 Question for all who have this car......
Im thinking of picking up a 2013 M5 but wanted to know what problems are common on these? I was debating on the 535i for fuel economy but Ive always been a M owner and still am. Anyways I know that the E60's had bearing issues which I believe are not an issue with these F10's but would like confirmation. What major issues would someone like me expect and how difficult is it to work on? The motor looks intimidating but I am mechanically inclined by far no expert but DIY for sure.
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02-04-2020, 02:49 PM | #2 |
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The '13s are noted for higher oil consumption, which was supposedly fixed (or is at least less prevalent/severe) going forward. Not all '13s have it and those that do have a pretty wide range. Personally I've averaged ~1700 miles per quart. Whether this is a major problem is up to you. I just keep a quart in the trunk and add when it says to.
they also revised/improved the injectors for future years. I believe all (or at least through a certain build date) '13s injectors are covered for 10 years/120K miles as a result. That said, I think at this point if the injectors on a '13 were bad, they'd have already shown it and been replaced. There might be considerations here if you're planning to tune, and others can speak better to that, but I've gotten the impression that at least a stage 1 is OK. Lastly is the A/C condenser, but I believe all years (and F10s in general) have the tendency for them to go bad. If I've missed anything from a common problems standpoint, others can chime in. |
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02-04-2020, 10:40 PM | #3 |
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My understanding is that the '13 build cars are fairly reliable.
Turbo coolant lines are a common issue affecting all F10 M5s (and even F90s) - there was a service campaign for it but they still are likely to prove an issue at some point. Relatively easily identified and fixed. Part prices are a rip off from BMW for what they are, but still shouldn't break the bank. |
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02-05-2020, 07:21 PM | #5 |
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I mean I had a 2013 for 6 months, it was issue after issue to where I traded car back in and leased a 2019 M550. I lost $4k in repairs and $8k on buy price to sell price, it had 32k miles and was beautiful. But it drank a qrt of oil every 650 miles, was just bad luck with series of plugs, coils, oil. Braman bmw tried saying they couldn't offer me very much trade in due to the list of repairs done by them and I had to get upset and remind them I just bought the car 6 months ago from them and had been repairing it since.
Love the f10 M5. You can get lucky or unlucky in my eyes if you get a 2013. I would factor in repairs and typical upkeep into your monthly payments. I had easy care warranty but deductible was $500, and doing one coil and one plug at a time it didn't help and dealer would only do one at a time unless I tooted the total bill. Then there was the constant trips to the dealer lol, time with loaners, my nerves always thinking another misfire, quart of oil always being carried in the trunk, I just was tired of having a part time job of keeping the car running I wouldn't do it again, but that's only one example of a 2013. There are more people without issues I think than people with issues.
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02-06-2020, 08:00 PM | #6 | |||
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The A/C Condenser you are talking about is that the one in the inside that leaks water? I read something about that and also that cover piece under the passenger side that leaks as well. As for tuning I may keep this car stock as it will be my daily. Quote:
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Any major issues other then the ones discussed? Nothing that can cause a motor failure or transmission failure is my main concerns. Also anything I should check while Im looking at these? Got 2 Im looking at this weekend and possibly a E63 as well. Im torn between the 2 at the moment. |
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02-07-2020, 03:15 AM | #7 |
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You could get a 14-15-16 year and have issues, even F90's have had issues with bearings etc.Surprised no one has yet suggested a technician use an engine stethoscope to determine the health of an engine before purchase
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02-09-2020, 11:41 PM | #8 | |
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Most likely when I find the right one Ill probably have a dealer do a full check on it prior to signing the dotted line. Unfortunately the ones Im looking at are out of warranty so got to figure out who has reasonable third party warranty? Any suggestions for ones who is out of warranty and if you ended up going with. |
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02-10-2020, 03:53 AM | #9 | |
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..and GL finding a warranty once you've found one. |
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02-12-2020, 09:57 PM | #10 | |
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02-13-2020, 08:52 AM | #11 |
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Do a quick search here on Patriot. Basically can be a good deal and well covered but only if you read the fine print and call them out on any "mistakes" in the policy.
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02-13-2020, 11:09 AM | #12 |
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Yup. I had to get with one of their supervisors to get what I wanted into the fine print. Basically the aggregate value of the contract, based on bill of sale, and not kbb etc, as well as the labor rate. I was verbally told that the $149 / hr rate here in Houston would be covered, no problem. Then the fine print had reverted back to their standard $120 / hr rate. If you get to that point, PM me and I'll give you the contact who got it squared away.
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02-18-2020, 08:04 PM | #13 | |
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02-19-2020, 03:41 PM | #14 |
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Well mine was knocking since i bought it and got it off the hauler. I though it was just cold but main thing i noticed was a weird knocking when i took my foot off the gas, very evident after harder acceleration. Causes of rod bearing failure can be many things, most common is pulling too much powerout of the car. I wouldnt go higher than stage 1 tuning wise. You put your bearings at risk with more boost, your clutches, spark plugs etc...
Just make sure you get it inspected before buying or go drive it. Let the car warm up until the quarter dot mark on the dash before getting on it, change oil regularly and limit power/boost if tuning it. |
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02-19-2020, 10:27 PM | #15 |
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Have owned my GC for many years outside of warranty without issue. 14's have newer injectors and a revised HPFP which make it much better if you plan to tune it. LCI also which means it will always be worth more. 15 and above also have stronger clutch packs.
There's no reason in the world not to get a 13 vs a 14, since you'll be getting the majority back in resale - not even factoring in a lesser chance of failed parts along the way!! |
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02-20-2020, 11:57 AM | #16 |
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Yes def correct on the 14 vs 13. 13's you can get quite cheaper than a 14. I was on a budget for paying cash on a car so i did the 2013. If i stay with a bmw it will be a 2014+ M6 next time or M5 with comp package. I love the way my car looks though, alpine white with all carbon fiber add on's and black accents and wheels. I am glad to know he HPFP and injectors are all under warranty for as long as Ill own it.
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02-24-2020, 04:18 AM | #17 |
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I had my -14 at the dealer through a buddy who works there, he said, “oh, you have the S63TU engine, that’s good, much less trouble with those”.
Guess the S63TU engine came with the facelift models in 2014. |
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02-24-2020, 04:39 AM | #18 |
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02-29-2020, 11:55 AM | #19 |
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03-01-2020, 05:52 AM | #20 |
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I think like many owners I get a bit nervous about the ‘blown engine’ stories but does anyone know in reality how many of those engines were tuned and/or were driven particularly hard? Is the blown engine scenario a consideration for the vanilla driver or is it something for the people who really want to push the car?
It’s hard to get an M5 far past tickover on a UK road these days. |
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03-01-2020, 08:53 AM | #21 | |
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