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      06-08-2021, 11:38 AM   #23
M5_Raz
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Per 2016 M5 manual:

Viscosity grades
When selecting an engine oil, make sure that the engine oil has the viscosity grade SAE 0W-30. Alternatively, also engine oils with vis‐ cosity grades SAE 5W-30, SAE 0W-40 or SAE 5W-40 can be used
Interesting, my 2016 says only 0w40 or 0w30 as an alternative. Same with my online version.
Can't trust BMW, what version is your manual? Trying to figure out why mine online shows that:

Online Edition for Part no. 01 40 2 972 617 - VI/16

Thanks!
I'm not sure how to check that. It's the official BMW Driver's Guide application from the Apple App Store. You put in your car info and they populate the relevant documents to your car.

I'm on version 2.4.3.
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      06-08-2021, 11:46 AM   #24
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Liquimoly 5w40 for the past 8k. Before that the car was maintained by the dealer and very well. Went in every 4-5k miles.
That's thick for our engines. My manual recommends 0w40 or 0w30 only.
I was using 5w-40 now I'm using 5w-50. Ow40/0w30 seem to be like water.
I'm only saying what the manual recommends. Why do you run a thicker oil?

It does burn a bit more with thinner oils, but I'd take that over not having the proper viscosity at startup (where a lot of wear occurs).
I use thicker oil because lower grade doesn't lubricate as well. I have my reasons it seems most rod bearing issues and other bigger issues happen when people are using recommended oil grades. I don't burn half as much oil and my fuel mileage is amazing 11.5 litres per 100km. Also I've talked to a lot of guys that are stage 2 tuned using 5w-50. Or 5-40. I only drive my car in summer months so outdoor temps tire is pretty hot. Even though it's thicker oil I do a proper warm up. I never put a heavy load on the car until it's reached running temp. I've noticed the cars engine sounds quieter with the thicker oil
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      06-08-2021, 11:50 AM   #25
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There's a member in this forum that has over 140 miles and he is set on redline 5w-50. His car is running strong and has been on a stage 2 tune I believe for over 50kmiles
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      06-08-2021, 01:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by M5_Raz View Post
I'm not sure how to check that. It's the official BMW Driver's Guide application from the Apple App Store. You put in your car info and they populate the relevant documents to your car.

I'm on version 2.4.3.
Yeah that is where I opened my manual. Weird... mine is July 2016 build date, but I am sure their app is messed up. I do have 0w30 inside the engine bay
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      06-09-2021, 07:50 AM   #27
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When you changed the oil let us know if the clicking has stopped.
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      06-09-2021, 08:14 PM   #28
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When you changed the oil let us know if the clicking has stopped.
I'm not starting it again after I saw the little but of copper in the oil. It's gonna go straight to the mechanic on a tow truck and hopefully the cranks is still fine once he opens it up.
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      07-06-2021, 01:46 PM   #29
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When the ticking speeds up at a rate faster than the rev/rpm it usually indicates something in the valvetrain is amiss. The gearing of valvetrain I believe is 2 to 1, so as you rev the ticking speeds up faster. If it were constant with the rpm then it is crank/rod related.
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      07-06-2021, 05:48 PM   #30
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Well, update for you folks.
Got the rod bearings replace with ACL. OEM started wearing but weren't bad. We replaced them still. What do you know, the noise is still there... my mechanic is stumped at what it could be.. can even listen with a stethoscope where the noise is coming from.
We thought bent rod, but then it's not loud enough and the car still pulls like a monster.
Main bearings? Maybe but, usually those give a bit of vibration and I'm I would feel something is off, and again those are usually pretty loud and noticeable.
At this point I don't know what it could be.. seems like the noise is directly under the turbos.
The noise still sounds like a lifter tick but a bit quieter and doesn't get loud the more rpm you give, just raises in speed.
Car still pulls like a freight train and not a single code.
We ran a smoothness test with ISTA and comes back good.
Literally stumped.
Any help would be appreciated!
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      07-06-2021, 10:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacecpe View Post
Well, update for you folks.
Got the rod bearings replace with ACL. OEM started wearing but weren't bad. We replaced them still. What do you know, the noise is still there... my mechanic is stumped at what it could be.. can even listen with a stethoscope where the noise is coming from.
We thought bent rod, but then it's not loud enough and the car still pulls like a monster.
Main bearings? Maybe but, usually those give a bit of vibration and I'm I would feel something is off, and again those are usually pretty loud and noticeable.
At this point I don't know what it could be.. seems like the noise is directly under the turbos.
The noise still sounds like a lifter tick but a bit quieter and doesn't get loud the more rpm you give, just raises in speed.
Car still pulls like a freight train and not a single code.
We ran a smoothness test with ISTA and comes back good.
Literally stumped.
Any help would be appreciated!
I remember hearing someone say they blew a exhaust manifold gasket after a long freeway pull and it made a similar noise. Maybe check that. I’d also do a compression test to confirm it’s not a slightly bent rod.
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      07-06-2021, 11:43 PM   #32
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Yea I saw that thread too.. I checked that area yesterday and didn't see much.. usually the exhaust manifold leak has an air sound to the tick not a metallic noise..
I don't know if a compression test would yield anything because even a slight bend on the rod would be felt in the power delivery.
Yesterday I beat the living crap out of it to actually try and see if a bent rod will get worse and make more noise and nothing..
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      07-07-2021, 12:26 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Spacecpe View Post
Yea I saw that thread too.. I checked that area yesterday and didn't see much.. usually the exhaust manifold leak has an air sound to the tick not a metallic noise..
I don't know if a compression test would yield anything because even a slight bend on the rod would be felt in the power delivery.
Yesterday I beat the living crap out of it to actually try and see if a bent rod will get worse and make more noise and nothing..
Yeah it would have to be a pretty weird leak to sound like yours does. Try pulling the oil cap while it’s running and listen for any extra noise. Could be a chain tensioner. Wonder if it’s a hydraulic lifter that has a little piece of debris in it making it not hold psi. Hard to tell from the video if it has that valve train kind of sound or not. Pulling the plugs to see if anything looks weird on one cylinder may be worth it.
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      07-07-2021, 01:18 AM   #34
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It literally sounds like a bad lifter. We did put the liquimoly lifter additive just in case, no result.
Funny enough, I wanted to rule out loose spark plug and ended up throwing my NGKs that I had waiting and did new coil packs since I was there. All of them look good.
Chain tensioner again would most likely throw some sort of vanos code.
Going nuts with this thing..
The only thing at this point I can think of is main bearing, but then again.. I don't think I'll be able to beat on it whatsoever and not even get any sort of vibration.
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      07-07-2021, 01:44 AM   #35
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Quote:
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It literally sounds like a bad lifter. We did put the liquimoly lifter additive just in case, no result.
Funny enough, I wanted to rule out loose spark plug and ended up throwing my NGKs that I had waiting and did new coil packs since I was there. All of them look good.
Chain tensioner again would most likely throw some sort of vanos code.
Going nuts with this thing..
The only thing at this point I can think of is main bearing, but then again.. I don't think I'll be able to beat on it whatsoever and not even get any sort of vibration.
I doubt it’s the mains but I guess anything is possible. Wish there was a good way to check oil psi. May have to get under the valve covers and look around. I’ve never seen it personally but I hear a failing injector can be noisy. That one is pretty far fetched but…
Also have you checked data logs for anything weird?
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      07-07-2021, 09:49 AM   #36
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I haven't checked data logs. And you're right about the injectors, that was my next move but they're out of stock with no eta. I know N54 injectors failing sometimes sound like a valve tap
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      07-07-2021, 10:32 AM   #37
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Quote:
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I haven't checked data logs. And you're right about the injectors, that was my next move but they're out of stock with no eta. I know N54 injectors failing sometimes sound like a valve tap
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I haven't checked data logs. And you're right about the injectors, that was my next move but they're out of stock with no eta. I know N54 injectors failing sometimes sound like a valve tap
I changed my injectors as preventative maintenance a while back but they were perfectly fine. If you want them for testing you could use them. They are EU5s with 50k miles. I ultrasonic cleaned them too.
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      07-07-2021, 05:44 PM   #38
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I'll keep you posted. Somebody said that if the tapping is louder when I open the oil cap it's a bent rod
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      11-17-2022, 11:12 AM   #39
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I'll keep you posted. Somebody said that if the tapping is louder when I open the oil cap it's a bent rod
Did you ever figure out the problem with your car. Was it the injectors or what.
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