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      08-11-2016, 08:57 PM   #23
ur20v
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Throttle bodies, carbon build up, high pressure fuel pumps, injector fuel rails (metal from manufacture has been found) are all know issues that can cause your problem.
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      08-14-2016, 01:44 AM   #24
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Smile

bit the bullet and bought M5 and traded in my 650i.
love the drive of M5 with all the extra performance features.
its true dont drive an M car otherwise it will be very difficult to stop from buying it.
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      03-02-2017, 09:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post
My ex f10 M5 2012 DCT has some decent problem. Currently the BMW shop investigating the root and cause of problem.

Car has 44k km and of course no error code via ODB.

- unstable idle. Engine shakes pretty well, you can even feel from the driver side. Unstable RPM during idle (not just cold start), needle moves up and down slightly
- driver side of the engine/banks shake well, maybe misfiring?
- on load, car seems to be not so stable

BMW shop changed the 8 injectors, changed the spark plugs, tested another set of coils, but the unstable idle remains.

Maybe vanos solenoids? Any idea?
Sounds like my CLS63. Unstable idle. Up and down. And Mercedes can't figure i the fuck out. Their best guess is a vacuum problem.
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      03-03-2017, 02:49 AM   #26
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All marques suffer these sort of problems and same trials to fix, any one that says otherwise is a fanboy.
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      11-13-2018, 11:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post
My ex f10 M5 2012 DCT has some decent problem. Currently the BMW shop investigating the root and cause of problem.

Car has 44k km and of course no error code via ODB.

- unstable idle. Engine shakes pretty well, you can even feel from the driver side. Unstable RPM during idle (not just cold start), needle moves up and down slightly
- driver side of the engine/banks shake well, maybe misfiring?
- on load, car seems to be not so stable

BMW shop changed the 8 injectors, changed the spark plugs, tested another set of coils, but the unstable idle remains.

Maybe vanos solenoids? Any idea?

Did you ever find out what was causing this? I have a '13 with 63k miles, been experiencing the same exact issues. Dealer replaced coil packs, spark plugs, injectors.. even the cat converters! My drivetrain is stock and its taken the dealer almost 3 months and about 5 visits to figure it out.

I just picked it up yesterday and the RPM needle spikes to 2500~ RPM a few times on cold starts for about 10-15 seconds.
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      11-15-2018, 02:04 PM   #28
Manny G
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Just to update from my last post, i waited until the fuel tank was at 3/4 full and added 2 complete 16oz. cans of Seafoam to the gas tank.. 2 cans is double concentrated at 2oz per gallon of gas. After a day of spirited driving, and allowing the engine to rev out i can say that the idle issue has showed signs of being a little more stable.

I still have plenty of fuel in the tank, so I am hoping by the time that the fuel tank is near empty, the unstable idle will have gone away.
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      11-18-2018, 10:14 PM   #29
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if you want maximum safe power HIT up DMETuningtexas on instagram there tune is breaking world records I have my M5 with Stage 2 downpipes catless and a DME tune i am at 790Bhp I had a competitor tune dme tuning is second to no one Hit them up and say david referred me and get a nice little discount
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      11-30-2018, 11:13 AM   #30
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I think my problem was being caused by the clamps I had on the factory exhaust valves that were holding them open.... one of them gave and closed one side, so I was running one side open valve and one side closed. I got rid of the clamps and the engine stopped fluctuating the RPM
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      12-02-2018, 10:11 PM   #31
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I have a 13 M6 and my car is on it's 3rd motor.

First failure was around 40k miles. Driving on the highway and the car just lost power. It spun a bearing.

Second failure happened when my car was getting a complete DCT replacement due to an abnormal noise. It had zero codes and drove perfect. The dealer cracked my block when separating my trans. This happened around 70k miles.

Currently have 2500 miles on a new motor and trans.
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      12-03-2018, 03:23 AM   #32
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Any one add Red Ex to their fuel tank? some say it reduces carbon build up yet a Bm tech told me it can burn your valves out if you use it all the time and one application every 4 tankfulls will suffice.
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      12-04-2018, 12:54 AM   #33
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2014 M5 and maintained by the book. Don't drive it hard and at 46k miles the valve guide seals failed and left me stranded on the bay bridge in rush hour. Not cute.
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      12-04-2018, 10:31 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny G View Post
I think my problem was being caused by the clamps I had on the factory exhaust valves that were holding them open.... one of them gave and closed one side, so I was running one side open valve and one side closed. I got rid of the clamps and the engine stopped fluctuating the RPM
Why were the clamps on to begin with?
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      12-04-2018, 11:23 AM   #35
Manny G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasoneo5 View Post
Why were the clamps on to begin with?
Holding open the exhaust valves for better sound and flow in all driving modes, not just sport plus.
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      12-04-2018, 10:42 PM   #36
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The way I see it any year with this motor is a risk. If you are on the Facebook groups and other forum you will see this motor blows up commonly with the amount of stories/post that come up.

These are great cars but I was much more confident in my old AMG even in my s65 m3 I was more confident.

Maybe it's user error due to oil burning being common and driving on low oil? Along with probamletsic injectors?

Oil changes every 3k are a must for me and plugs every 5k.
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      12-04-2018, 11:35 PM   #37
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Bought my 2014 a year ago w/ 58k and did coils and gapped plugs immediately after going BM3+DP’s. Also did the turbo coolant lines...all of the above DIY. Car now has 64k and brakes are next, another DIY. No real issues yet, fingers crossed.
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      12-06-2018, 07:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasoneo5 View Post
Bought my 2014 a year ago w/ 58k and did coils and gapped plugs immediately after going BM3+DP’s. Also did the turbo coolant lines...all of the above DIY. Car now has 64k and brakes are next, another DIY. No real issues yet, fingers crossed.
what's the cost on parts? (e90 M3 owner here, just wondering)
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      12-06-2018, 07:44 PM   #39
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So small I didn't even factor it....probably 400 bucks for everything. Haven't bought the brakes yet but have plenty of time left one the current ones...
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      12-06-2018, 07:58 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasoneo5 View Post
So small I didn't even factor it....probably 400 bucks for everything. Haven't bought the brakes yet but have plenty of time left one the current ones...
Right, that's one of the big ticket items but again like you said, very easily DIY'able.
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      12-06-2018, 08:04 PM   #41
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I'm no mechanic and was a complete stranger to the engine, that said the coolant lines, coils and plugs took no longer than 3 hours!
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      12-06-2018, 10:31 PM   #42
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2013 (10/12 build date) owner here chiming in

Preface: I've owned many high-maintenance MB AMG and M cars, and the most important thing is previous maintenance or knowledge of what maintenance needs to be performed.

You won't be a cheap baller for long with one of these cars.

I've owned mine for a few months now, purchased with 56k, now has almost 60k. I drive often, just not too far.

The unreliability is overblown with these cars.

Example: I noticed that my turbo coolant lines are in bad shape. I ordered a kit of new ones. Then a "low coolant" light came on. I knew where it was from. No big deal, added literally an ounce of distilled water, and it's been fine since.

Then, my car started slipping the clutches slightly taking off while cold (after a 1 min warmup)

No biggie, do a clutch and DCT adaptation, problem is fixed.

I buy good 5W40 Liqui Moly oil and change it every 4-5k miles, have never faced the issued most people face. (Oil brand and weight can be questionable, but I will be glad to compare it to any other brand/weights blackstone report).

Other than that, I feel the car needs a few bushings. No big deal.

However, apart from my old CL65, I can't think of a more reliable M5 to buy at the moment.

For every guy to complain about throwing a rod bearing, there are one hundred happy owners with 100+k on their cars who dont give a shit about forums.
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      12-07-2018, 07:17 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isved View Post
Preface: I've owned many high-maintenance MB AMG and M cars, and the most important thing is previous maintenance or knowledge of what maintenance needs to be performed.

You won't be a cheap baller for long with one of these cars.

I've owned mine for a few months now, purchased with 56k, now has almost 60k. I drive often, just not too far.

The unreliability is overblown with these cars.

Example: I noticed that my turbo coolant lines are in bad shape. I ordered a kit of new ones. Then a "low coolant" light came on. I knew where it was from. No big deal, added literally an ounce of distilled water, and it's been fine since.

Then, my car started slipping the clutches slightly taking off while cold (after a 1 min warmup)

No biggie, do a clutch and DCT adaptation, problem is fixed.

I buy good 5W40 Liqui Moly oil and change it every 4-5k miles, have never faced the issued most people face. (Oil brand and weight can be questionable, but I will be glad to compare it to any other brand/weights blackstone report).

Other than that, I feel the car needs a few bushings. No big deal.

However, apart from my old CL65, I can't think of a more reliable M5 to buy at the moment.

For every guy to complain about throwing a rod bearing, there are one hundred happy owners with 100+k on their cars who dont give a shit about forums.

This gives me hope. Before I bought my 335i I saw all the horror stories but honestly my ownership experience has been relatively issue free. A few random electronic gremlins that once tracked down were fixed for not much (stealership wanted a grip) but mechanically its been a pretty solid car and given me the confidence to possibly make the next step. Posts like these help.
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      12-08-2018, 03:30 PM   #44
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Wot no forum?

Quote:
Originally Posted by isved View Post
Preface: I've owned many high-maintenance MB AMG and M cars, and the most important thing is previous maintenance or knowledge of what maintenance needs to be performed.

You won't be a cheap baller for long with one of these cars.

I've owned mine for a few months now, purchased with 56k, now has almost 60k. I drive often, just not too far.

The unreliability is overblown with these cars.

Example: I noticed that my turbo coolant lines are in bad shape. I ordered a kit of new ones. Then a "low coolant" light came on. I knew where it was from. No big deal, added literally an ounce of distilled water, and it's been fine since.

Then, my car started slipping the clutches slightly taking off while cold (after a 1 min warmup)

No biggie, do a clutch and DCT adaptation, problem is fixed.

I buy good 5W40 Liqui Moly oil and change it every 4-5k miles, have never faced the issued most people face. (Oil brand and weight can be questionable, but I will be glad to compare it to any other brand/weights blackstone report).

Other than that, I feel the car needs a few bushings. No big deal.

However, apart from my old CL65, I can't think of a more reliable M5 to buy at the moment.

For every guy to complain about throwing a rod bearing, there are one hundred happy owners with 100+k on their cars who dont give a shit about forums.
Ok but that doesn't mean the other 99 per cent won't be coming on the forum on how to keep their motors running like that,trouble free.There's also the huge market in aftermarket accessories like exhausts and tune parts that owners need advice on, so you're wrong about many owners not giving a xxx about forums.

Last edited by M5Rick; 12-08-2018 at 03:55 PM..
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