Front Brake Pad change procedure

[johntomferg]

So we know the BMW F10 M5's front calipers are made by Brembo, but most Brembo calipers feed the pad in and out through the 'top'/'outside' when changing pads.

However, when looking at the BMW M5's calipers, this does not appear to be the case. Is there enough room to slip the pads out the 'bottom'/'inside' without taking the caliper off?

Part of the value of the typical Brembo design is the ease of changing pads and not having to remove the caliper.

Thanks to those that respond!

If I am missing something - please advise.

[halfbent]

[E90Fleet]

The M5 one is a little different from some other Brembo calipers.

Standard procedure is

1) Drive out the 2 locking pins from the pads/caliper
2) Push back the pads to compress the brake pistons
3) Unscrew the 2 retaining nuts on the caliper (one top end, one bottom end of inner side of caliper when viewing from rear of car toward front) (tightening torque 95Nm)
4) Pull the caliper as far back as the brake lines will allow ( Calipers stays haning on the stud bolts)
5) Feed the brake pads out towards the front of the car
6) Clean caliper contact surfaces with brake cleaner
7) Do not use brake pad paste
8) Insert new pads and reassemble


EDIT: Picture added

[johntomferg]

Awesome! Thanks.

[E90Fleet]

Originally Posted by johntomferg

Awesome! Thanks.

Picture added above

[TrevorM3]

so what are the pins there for? i thought the pins were there so you could do a quick pad change..? but you still have to loosen those two nuts..

[nynd]

Nuts need to be removed so you ca slide caliper back off the pins to compress pistons so you can put in new pads (ideally thicker).

[E90Fleet]

Originally Posted by TrevorM3

so what are the pins there for? i thought the pins were there so you could do a quick pad change..? but you still have to loosen those two nuts..

The pins hold the pads securely in place.
And allow them to slide sideways

For some reason the M5 calipers had to be re-enforced and have extra metal at the rear, making it impossible to remove the pads backwards.

The F80 M3 dos not have this re-enforcing and its pads can be slid out backwards on the standard brakes.
Its carbon brakes though have the re-enforcement




A number of Brembo caliper designs have teh re-enforcement

[johntomferg]

E90 Fleet, do you also have the thickness tolerances for the front discs to use for determining if the can be turned or must be replaced?

[E90Fleet]

Originally Posted by johntomferg

E90 Fleet, do you also have the thickness tolerances for the front discs to use for determining if the can be turned or must be replaced?

They always stamp it on the Rotor Hub
Its 34.4mm

[TrevorM3]

my AMG has pins also, will check to see if they are able to slip out the back.

didn't know that the rotor thickness cut depth was on the hub! good to know

[johntomferg]

e90fleet.. . the pads I have appear to have a weight on them where as the pads I am taking off do not. I ended up having to disconnect my SS brake lines and pull the calipers all the way off to put the new cool carbon pads on.

Just regular brake bleeding work from there forward...

I just wrapped up the bed-in procedures and all appears good. for those following the other thread, my school bus squeak is gone and I definitely had some glazing on the old carbotechs.

[E90Fleet]

Originally Posted by johntomferg

e90fleet.. . the pads I have appear to have a weight on them where as the pads I am taking off do not. I ended up having to disconnect my SS brake lines and pull the calipers all the way off to put the new cool carbon pads on.

Yes, you want the ones with the vibration dampers (weights).
They help reduce the squealing noise when braking.


BMW change the OEM pads from ones with no weight to ones with in April 2014 to try and reduce the noise made by the brakes.

Original OEM pads without damper weights (Before April 2014)


April 2014 + OEM pads with damper weights

[johntomferg]

thanks for the details E90Fleet. It is definitely a better design from a sound standpoint.

Unfortunately, at least in my case with the challenge SS lines, the caliper must come off the studs now to clear the new design with weights. The positive is that I have no initially 'clack' 'clack' from the pads and no squeal (yet).

Admins: can you move this to the DIY section. I suspect the level of detail here will help others that tackle the front brake change.

Additional notes for DIY'ers and commentary.

tools / supplies needed:

14mm socket for the hat nut on the two mount studs.
11mm socket for the caliper Bleed screws
11mm wrench to release brake line from the calipers.
Small punch for Caliper/Pad pins. I used a small drill bit that a better size than a nail punch.
Small hammer for hitting punch.
rags and small pan to catch brake fluid.
Small cap for covering the Brake line when you disconnect it... I happened to have one. Otherwise just lay in pan and allow to slow drip while you install pads in Calipers.
Brake fluid of preference. I'm matching what I already have in the system which is Castrol SRF but that is NOT the stock/std brake fluid that you BMW comes with from the factory or after a dealer flush.
Small flathead screw driver.

Additional Steps (Building on those for E90Fleet):

0) Jack up car and remove wheel.



1) Drive out the 2 locking pins from the pads/caliper



2) Push back the pads to compress the brake pistons
3) Unscrew the 2 retaining nuts on the caliper (one top end, one bottom end of inner side of caliper when viewing from rear of car toward front) (tightening torque 95Nm or 70 Ft Lbs)
4) Unscrew the feed line and cap.




5) Remove Caliper from studs.
6) Remove Pads from Calipers.
6.1) Clean caliper contact surfaces with brake cleaner
6.2) Do not use brake pad paste
7) Compress 6 pistons (one at a time) with fingers. Note you will lose some brake fluid at this point just don't push too hard or you will "squirt" it out and risk hitting something important like the car!
7) Insert New Pads.



8) Reassemble the Caliper.
9) Before putting wheel back on (it just makes it easier) bleed both sides of the Caliper by loosening the two bleed nuts (1/4 turn should do it). Once it gravity feeds and brake fluid is coming out of both sides you can tighten it back up.

Special note 1: the bleed screws are relatively fragile. Do not be a superman or you will sheer it off and be replacing it.

Special note 2: Optionally, if you think you had some air get into the system and the gravity feed method above is not working: With the bleed screws closed, have someone depress and hold the brake. Loosen the bleed screw until fluid is released and then re-tighten while they still have the pedal down. Repeat on other bleed screw.

10) Reassemble.
11) Repeat steps on other side.
12) Open hood and remove the plastic cover on the driver side at back of engine bay. There are three pop screws, just use a flat head to lift the center pin. You will find the Brake reservoir here. [Sorry I didn't get a picture, I might come back and add one.]

13) Start Car to pressurize the brake system and pump the brake a few times. Turn off car.
14) Remove sensor wire on cap (you may need the screw driver again to release the clip). Remove Cap.
15) Pump brake several more times- you will likely hear air escape [I did] and then it will stop after several pumps.
16) Fill to Max line with additional brake fluid.
17) Replace cap and reconnect sensor then reassemble the panel with screws and close hood.


At this point you should be ready for your test drive. Remember to test brakes early and often until you have completed your initial test drive and are ready to do you bed in procedure. Remember to check the torque of your wheel nuts before AND after your drive.

All information above is provided without warranty or guarantee. Follow at your own risk. This was the process I followed.

Note: I do not use the brake pad sensors, so that step is not covered but for those that wish to use them it should be intuitively obvious. :-)

Time: It took me 3.5 hours to do this (including the drive time for the brake in procedure) but I wasn't rushing, I was spending a good amount of time trying to get the new pads in the calipers without having to disconnect the brake line, and this was my first time doing brake work on the M5 myself.

[financenick]

Originally Posted by E90Fleet

The M5 one is a little different from some other Brembo calipers.

Standard procedure is

1) Drive out the 2 locking pins from the pads/caliper
2) Push back the pads to compress the brake pistons
3) Unscrew the 2 retaining nuts on the caliper (one top end, one bottom end of inner side of caliper when viewing from rear of car toward front) (tightening torque 95Nm)
4) Pull the caliper as far back as the brake lines will allow ( Calipers stays haning on the stud bolts)
5) Feed the brake pads out towards the front of the car
6) Clean caliper contact surfaces with brake cleaner
7) Do not use brake pad paste
8) Insert new pads and reassemble


EDIT: Picture added

so why should i not use paste? and do you mean anti-squeal?

[BMWM5NYC]

Originally Posted by financenick

so why should i not use paste? and do you mean anti-squeal?

I think that is one of the main reason M5 brakes squeal. They vibrate in the caliper. I had the same issue with my E60 M5. I had the dealer put brake paste on the backs of the pads and never had another squeal in 4 yrs until I sold it.

[TrevorM3]

Thanks for taking the time to write up.

Which pads did u change them too? Ot did u go OE?

[johntomferg]

cool carbon...

[TrevorM3]

Do u track? Or just street?

[financenick]

Originally Posted by E90Fleet

The M5 one is a little different from some other Brembo calipers.

Standard procedure is

1) Drive out the 2 locking pins from the pads/caliper
2) Push back the pads to compress the brake pistons
3) Unscrew the 2 retaining nuts on the caliper (one top end, one bottom end of inner side of caliper when viewing from rear of car toward front) (tightening torque 95Nm)
4) Pull the caliper as far back as the brake lines will allow ( Calipers stays haning on the stud bolts)
5) Feed the brake pads out towards the front of the car
6) Clean caliper contact surfaces with brake cleaner
7) Do not use brake pad paste
8) Insert new pads and reassemble


EDIT: Picture added

instruction 7 says no paste, but they will squeal

[johntomferg]

Originally Posted by TrevorM3

Do u track? Or just street?

Street, but very aggressive street. Not abusive, but I 'enjoy' my car.

Originally Posted by financenick

instruction 7 says no paste, but they will squeal

I have had no squeal with the Cool Carbon pads and I did not use any paste.
No 'click-clack' either.

[TrevorM3]

Originally Posted by johntomferg

Street, but very aggressive street. Not abusive, but I 'enjoy' my car.



I have had no squeal with the Cool Carbon pads and I did not use any paste.
No 'click-clack' either.

ok good to know. you and be me both buddy.

enjoy the car safely.

btw, which site did you purchase pads from?