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      06-12-2019, 05:12 PM   #1
_BSMM5
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Bootmod 3 Stage 2 - Low Dyno Readings

Before I dive in, I will say I have already spoken with Halim from proTUNING Freaks to figure out what the issue is and the support has been good so far. I'm waiting to get some logs to better diagnose the issue.


Mods:
Stage 2 OTS 93 Octane Mild Burble (Beta w/ reduced torque)
Catless Downpipe
Charcoal Delete
Muffler Delete

Put my car on a dynojet yesterday and put down:

563 HP/590 TQ in 4th gear
589 HP/622 TQ in 5th gear


I posted this in the Bootmod3 page on fb and in the F10 forums and opinion was pretty unanimous that something is off considering many users are reaching 660 HP/640 TQ with the same tune/bolt ons. Even one user posted a dyno of his M3 on BM3 Stage 2 pushing 580 HP/620 TQ

I'll post the logs later tonight, but I figured I'd post just to make it interesting. What do you guys think is going on?

From others I've shared with it seems to be:
1. Poor Fuel (I'm running 93, but maybe bad pump gas?)

2. Poor Airflow in dyno causing ECU to pull timing/heat soak (The setup was pretty low quality, with one carpet fan pointed at the radiator and another at the turbos)

3. Poor Tuning (Highly doubtful as others are running the same OTS w/ great results)

4. Something wrong with the car (not holding boost, improper cooling, I do have a CEL on one of my pre-cat O2 sensors that I damaged during install culprate??)

My power goals were 700 whp once I get a custom tune and meth set up, but seems like I'm like a long way off.

Heres a video to see the set up, (car is dirty, it was raining)

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Last edited by _BSMM5; 06-14-2019 at 12:26 PM..
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      06-13-2019, 03:39 AM   #2
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Id be replacing the sensor before even worrying about anything else
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      06-13-2019, 08:24 AM   #3
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My experience with NA cars may not directly cross to our turbo cars, but primary O2's do a lot of work and will affect performance if not working correctly. I highly recommend replacing both precat O2's unless one of them was replaced recently. It's always best to replace in pairs.
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      06-13-2019, 08:33 AM   #4
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So I replaced both 02 sensors last night and the vehicle seemed to run much better, idling was nearly perfect (before it was fluctuating a tiny bit), the burbles from my tune were no longer obnoxious gun shots but small gurgles (was probably running way too rich before), and the vehicle "felt" like it pulled harder..

Did it feel like 70+ HP stronger? Not sure... but I'll be back on the dyno soon.

Here are logs from last night, one thing I see is STFT is high. IAT looks good.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5d01c21ac090c642819c902b
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      06-13-2019, 11:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _BSMM5 View Post
So I replaced both 02 sensors last night and the vehicle seemed to run much better, idling was nearly perfect (before it was fluctuating a tiny bit), the burbles from my tune were no longer obnoxious gun shots but small gurgles (was probably running way too rich before), and the vehicle "felt" like it pulled harder..

Did it feel like 70+ HP stronger? Not sure... but I'll be back on the dyno soon.

Here are logs from last night, one thing I see is STFT is high. IAT looks good.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5d01c21ac090c642819c902b

Good to know, thx - will probably do the same with mine soon.

Easy DIY??
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      06-13-2019, 12:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasoneo5 View Post
Good to know, thx - will probably do the same with mine soon.

Easy DIY??
Yes, you will need a torx set and a 22mm O2 Sensor removal tool, highly recommend a magnetic pick up tool as I've lost the bolts to the heat shield and DME bridge 1/3 times. Not a big deal as you can order extras but annoying.

This is a good tutorial to follow to get to the sensors.

https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1425383
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      06-14-2019, 07:06 AM   #7
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Nice work. Keep us posted, especially after you return to the dyno. It's worth noting but your fuel trims will need a little time to adjust with the new sensors. Give it a few days of driving normally before going back to the dyno, IMO.
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      06-14-2019, 08:07 AM   #8
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1st thing you need to do it log the car under WOT and send in logs without these nobody from ptf can help

Also these days dyno figures donít mean a lot you need to do 100-200 vbox or dragy test

Also you shouldnít have been getting gunshots on a mild burble tune
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      06-14-2019, 08:09 AM   #9
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Here are the logs.

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5d01c21ac090c642819c902b
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      06-14-2019, 08:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Motorsports View Post
1st thing you need to do it log the car under WOT and send in logs without these nobody from ptf can help

Also these days dyno figures don't mean a lot you need to do 100-200 vbox or dragy test

Also you shouldn't have been getting gunshots on a mild burble tune
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Motorsports View Post
1st thing you need to do it log the car under WOT and send in logs without these nobody from ptf can help

Also these days dyno figures don't mean a lot you need to do 100-200 vbox or dragy test

Also you shouldn't have been getting gunshots on a mild burble tune
Here are the logs, not from the dyno pull, but the night after I replaced my 02 sensors.

I agree with the gunshots part I figured it was due to the left sensor being out

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5d01c21ac090c642819c902b
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      06-14-2019, 08:13 AM   #11
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You need to log from 3rd or 4th gear from 2500-3000rpm to redline

With driving aids off if possible
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      06-14-2019, 08:15 AM   #12
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If you had an o2 sensor down no doubt thereís your problem lol
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      06-14-2019, 08:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Motorsports View Post
You need to log from 3rd or 4th gear from 2500-3000rpm to redline

With driving aids off if possible
There are two 3000-6000 pulls in there with MDM in 4th gear.


I can take more tonight, I'm getting back on dyno Sunday.

Halim from PTF also recommended I mix in some E85 to boost octane as poor fuel quality may have been an issue as well.
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      06-14-2019, 10:50 AM   #14
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Are you serious with that table fan infront of the car? He gets Zero cooling.
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      06-14-2019, 11:12 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Alucard335iA View Post
Are you serious with that table fan infront of the car? He gets Zero cooling.
I'm afraid to run it again at the same place.. He has a second fan. Is there a better place to put them?
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      06-14-2019, 11:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _BSMM5 View Post
There are two 3000-6000 pulls in there with MDM in 4th gear.


I can take more tonight, I'm getting back on dyno Sunday.

Halim from PTF also recommended I mix in some E85 to boost octane as poor fuel quality may have been an issue as well.
Yeah I canít see logs very well as Iím looking on my phone but timing is a little low which usually means octane
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      06-14-2019, 12:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Motorsports View Post
Yeah I canít see logs very well as Iím looking on my phone but timing is a little low which usually means octane
You may have a little bit of bad gas, but you need some clean runs also. Start at the 2,500 RPM mark and keep it up to rev limiter. Then cruise the car at low speed and low rpm for a few minutes then repeat again 3 to 4 times. Between runs make sure you bring the motor to a cooling drive unless you are a hot lap type of driver and looking to see your logs for that. But for most roll racing you will have some cool down between. Try to make sure your logging start just a couple of seconds and only a couple seconds after once completing the run. This will help you and your tuner analyze each log properly.
These cars do heat soak so the timing being pulled could be do to that in your later runs, but with the log its hard to tell that. Just my 2 cents.
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      06-14-2019, 12:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB6 View Post
You may have a little bit of bad gas, but you need some clean runs also. Start at the 2,500 RPM mark and keep it up to rev limiter. Then cruise the car at low speed and low rpm for a few minutes then repeat again 3 to 4 times. Between runs make sure you bring the motor to a cooling drive unless you are a hot lap type of driver and looking to see your logs for that. But for most roll racing you will have some cool down between. Try to make sure your logging start just a couple of seconds and only a couple seconds after once completing the run. This will help you and your tuner analyze each log properly.
These cars do heat soak so the timing being pulled could be do to that in your later runs, but with the log its hard to tell that. Just my 2 cents.
correction to my last post " Try to make sure your logging starts just a couple of seconds BEFORE YOU HIT IT and only a couple seconds after YOU HIT REV LIMIT AND LET OFF (ONLY IF YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE HITTING REV LIMITER) once completing the run"
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      06-14-2019, 12:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB6 View Post
You may have a little bit of bad gas, but you need some clean runs also. Start at the 2,500 RPM mark and keep it up to rev limiter. Then cruise the car at low speed and low rpm for a few minutes then repeat again 3 to 4 times. Between runs make sure you bring the motor to a cooling drive unless you are a hot lap type of driver and looking to see your logs for that. But for most roll racing you will have some cool down between. Try to make sure your logging start just a couple of seconds and only a couple seconds after once completing the run. This will help you and your tuner analyze each log properly.
These cars do heat soak so the timing being pulled could be do to that in your later runs, but with the log its hard to tell that. Just my 2 cents.
Agree
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      06-14-2019, 01:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB6 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Motorsports View Post
Yeah I can’t see logs very well as I’m looking on my phone but timing is a little low which usually means octane
You may have a little bit of bad gas, but you need some clean runs also. Start at the 2,500 RPM mark and keep it up to rev limiter. Then cruise the car at low speed and low rpm for a few minutes then repeat again 3 to 4 times. Between runs make sure you bring the motor to a cooling drive unless you are a hot lap type of driver and looking to see your logs for that. But for most roll racing you will have some cool down between. Try to make sure your logging start just a couple of seconds and only a couple seconds after once completing the run. This will help you and your tuner analyze each log properly.
These cars do heat soak so the timing being pulled could be do to that in your later runs, but with the log its hard to tell that. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks I will make sure to get better logs. It was my first time data logging!
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      06-14-2019, 03:12 PM   #21
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interesting info on how different your car ran after replacing first set of o2 sensors

i bet you will get your power back

what is your spark plug setup?

i just had my sensors out after running your same mod list for about 5k miles and they are BLACK.
i bet the burble and extra fuel wears them out quicker

cant wait to see your new HP #'s
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      06-14-2019, 03:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatorangem5 View Post
interesting info on how different your car ran after replacing first set of o2 sensors

i bet you will get your power back

what is your spark plug setup?

i just had my sensors out after running your same mod list for about 5k miles and they are BLACK.
i bet the burble and extra fuel wears them out quicker

cant wait to see your new HP #'s
thanks. I'm excited too. Just hoping I can get on a properly cooled setup with some airflow.

Also important note - it wasn't that I just replaced the first set but one of my sensors was completely fried/damaged. I had a CEL that it wasn't even registering it as. I didn't think it would make a huge difference but it did.

I'm on NGK 97506, gapped to .018. I installed them maybe 400 miles ago along with injectors so basically brand new.
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