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      09-07-2018, 05:38 AM   #155
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I'd like to see some pictures like this:

Like these?
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      09-08-2018, 11:06 AM   #156
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Has SSP or anyone figured out if theres a solution/ something to treat the sensors with to stop future buildup at the sensor point or is this going to be a routine type service for some people?
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      09-08-2018, 05:23 PM   #157
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Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
Has SSP or anyone figured out if theres a solution/ something to treat the sensors with to stop future buildup at the sensor point or is this going to be a routine type service for some people?
Think right now is to flush and clean the sensors off. Maybe there is something they have some up with. I'm on my 3rd DCT
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      09-09-2018, 10:36 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by KMORGSM5 View Post
Think right now is to flush and clean the sensors off. Maybe there is something they have some up with. I'm on my 3rd DCT
That's unfortunate that its so prevalent and seems to be routine for such a tedious service
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      09-09-2018, 10:57 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMORGSM5 View Post
Think right now is to flush and clean the sensors off. Maybe there is something they have some up with. I'm on my 3rd DCT
That's unfortunate that its so prevalent and seems to be routine for such a tedious service
Having over 1,000 wtq is hard on the DCT
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      09-11-2018, 02:15 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMORGSM5 View Post
Think right now is to flush and clean the sensors off. Maybe there is something they have some up with. I'm on my 3rd DCT
Your 3RD DCT ?
Mind sharing how long each one lasted and what issue or codes you had at time of replacement ?

I have spoken with SSP about various "gear rod" codes and they stated to have assisted multiple clients with successful cleaning.
The valve body needs to be opened up and cleaned as well. Not just the sensor locations.
I am in the process of cleaning the valve body currently and will post my update on here
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      09-11-2018, 03:23 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by KMORGSM5 View Post
Having over 1,000 wtq is hard on the DCT
I believe people are getting it in the 600s-800s wtrq range which is a problem especially if theres not a solution.

I was making 1000+wtrq with a GTR and aside from fluid and clutch changes was 100% reliable for 26k miles lol and 20k miles before that lol
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      09-11-2018, 04:21 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
I believe people are getting it in the 600s-800s wtrq range which is a problem especially if theres not a solution.

I was making 1000+wtrq with a GTR and aside from fluid and clutch changes was 100% reliable for 26k miles lol and 20k miles before that lol
I mentioned this already but in my case I only got the rod shift error on shift setting DCT2(cold or hot engine).....DCT3 increases the clutch max clamping force and luckily never got the error no matter how hard I drove.....now I only get the error on DCT2 when car is cold...after 5 mins of driving never get it on DCT2 or 3.....I ran the Dodson clutch which slipped from day one and didnt last.. and now run the BBMR 18plate clutch which runs very strong.
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      09-11-2018, 04:24 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steeve13m View Post
I mentioned this already but in my case I only got the rod shift error on shift setting DCT2(cold or hot engine).....DCT3 increases the clutch max clamping force and luckily never got the error no matter how hard I drove.....now I only get the error on DCT when car is cold...after 5 mins of driving never get it on DCT2 or 3.....I run the BBMR 18plate clutch
I'm guessing lots of people are bumping power to 650+ and then just abusing the car and its exposed a weakness, sounds like properly warming up the trans (I would never go WOT on my gtr and don't on my R8 until temps are above 155-170 (easier to see on the GTR cause of the display, I just guess with the R8 after 15-25 minutes of driving and use the engine full temp as a barometer), but like you said it sounds like abuse + comfort settings = trouble vs. WOT warm and aggressive lol
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      09-11-2018, 11:38 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell1982 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMORGSM5 View Post
Think right now is to flush and clean the sensors off. Maybe there is something they have some up with. I'm on my 3rd DCT
Your 3RD DCT ?
Mind sharing how long each one lasted and what issue or codes you had at time of replacement ?

I have spoken with SSP about various "gear rod" codes and they stated to have assisted multiple clients with successful cleaning.
The valve body needs to be opened up and cleaned as well. Not just the sensor locations.
I am in the process of cleaning the valve body currently and will post my update on here
First one was replaced when car was stock because there was shudder when reversing the car, also replaced rear diff. To be honest they probably didn't need to replace it but I wasn't going to argue.

Second was a small plastic piece in the shifting fork that broke! Very critical component inside the transmission, could have been fixed but was able to get the third one covered, so why not get a new one for cheaper than the cost of labor to disassemble and replace a piece of plastic
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      09-12-2018, 11:40 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
I believe people are getting it in the 600s-800s wtrq range which is a problem especially if theres not a solution.

I was making 1000+wtrq with a GTR and aside from fluid and clutch changes was 100% reliable for 26k miles lol and 20k miles before that lol
Exactly right. Case in point. It's more about HOW you drive the car than what you do to it. There are many people who don't let the oil get warm before romping on the throttle and transmission. I'm almost at 90,000 miles on my original DCT and have not had any of these problems. I will pull my tranny out next year and perform a cleaning anyway, but it's been extremely reliable for me all these years. But also, having my additional cooling (through my auxilary DCT cooling package, complete with: larger oil capacity, additional radiator, and dedicated cooling fan) also helps keep my DCT transmission oil operating temps down a lot. Cooler oil is always good for business! And I'm way over 800lbs/ft torque BTW.
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      09-12-2018, 12:12 PM   #166
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I couldn't agree more about warming up the equipment and proper maintenance (interpretation - best practices and top quality products). I am switching over to oil changes every 3 to 4,000 miles to ensure reliability.
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      09-14-2018, 11:36 PM   #167
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Disassembled the valve and cleaned everything I could take apart.
An example of some of the disassembly.
Everything back together and transmission back into the vehicle.
Tomorrow I'll add fluid and attempt the teach-in that previously was failing.
I'll update my results. Hopefully good to go !
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      09-15-2018, 11:13 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPiM5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
I believe people are getting it in the 600s-800s wtrq range which is a problem especially if theres not a solution.

I was making 1000+wtrq with a GTR and aside from fluid and clutch changes was 100% reliable for 26k miles lol and 20k miles before that lol
Exactly right. Case in point. It's more about HOW you drive the car than what you do to it. There are many people who don't let the oil get warm before romping on the throttle and transmission. I'm almost at 90,000 miles on my original DCT and have not had any of these problems. I will pull my tranny out next year and perform a cleaning anyway, but it's been extremely reliable for me all these years. But also, having my additional cooling (through my auxilary DCT cooling package, complete with: larger oil capacity, additional radiator, and dedicated cooling fan) also helps keep my DCT transmission oil operating temps down a lot. Cooler oil is always good for business! And I'm way over 800lbs/ft torque BTW.
For me it's not that, warming up. I always do that with every car. For me it's the heat down here and south Florida. New SSP cooling system should help!
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      09-16-2018, 05:44 PM   #169
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Any update
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      09-19-2018, 07:22 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelpro View Post
Fault parking lock disengagement. Time exceeded
And. Cant give any order to d,r,n
Switched to p
I checked. Wiring cable for parking hock
It was ok
When i checked by ista /d
Said replace transmission
My knowledge
Faulty from mechatronic or tcu
Found this TSB. Wanted to share about your current experience.

Technical Service

SUBJECT
ZF 6HP/8HP Transmissions Replacement on Vehicles Out of BMW Warranty

MODEL
All with ZF 6HP/8HP Automatic Transmissions and EWS4 System

INFORMATION
On BMW vehicles equipped with the ZF 6HP/8HP transmissions, and the EWS 4 system (starting with E70, X5), the transmission control module (Mechatronic) is an essential part of the vehicle's immobilization system.

After programming/coding, the Mechatronic is mated with DME, CAS modules for the specific VIN number.

For vehicles outside of the applicable BMW warranty coverage program, and when the transmission replacement is required, it is not possible to install a used (e.g. sourced from the salvage yard) automatic transmission without affecting the ability of the vehicle to function.

The EWS 4 system will prevent gear selection due to "non-matching" rolling code in the control modules. It is a security function and it cannot be overrun (similarly to DME functionality).

To assure proper operation of the vehicle, we recommend that only the factory remanufactured ZF 6HP/8HP transmissions be used for replacement repairs paid by customers, insurance companies or third party service providers.

WARRANTY INFORMATION
For information only.
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      09-20-2018, 08:19 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell1982 View Post
Found this TSB. Wanted to share about your current experience.

Technical Service

SUBJECT
ZF 6HP/8HP Transmissions Replacement on Vehicles Out of BMW Warranty

MODEL
All with ZF 6HP/8HP Automatic Transmissions and EWS4 System

INFORMATION
On BMW vehicles equipped with the ZF 6HP/8HP transmissions, and the EWS 4 system (starting with E70, X5), the transmission control module (Mechatronic) is an essential part of the vehicle's immobilization system.

After programming/coding, the Mechatronic is mated with DME, CAS modules for the specific VIN number.

For vehicles outside of the applicable BMW warranty coverage program, and when the transmission replacement is required, it is not possible to install a used (e.g. sourced from the salvage yard) automatic transmission without affecting the ability of the vehicle to function.

The EWS 4 system will prevent gear selection due to "non-matching" rolling code in the control modules. It is a security function and it cannot be overrun (similarly to DME functionality).

To assure proper operation of the vehicle, we recommend that only the factory remanufactured ZF 6HP/8HP transmissions be used for replacement repairs paid by customers, insurance companies or third party service providers.

WARRANTY INFORMATION
For information only.
yes , but zf 6hp . or 8 hp ,EWS can reset b y auto hex for example, but only dct not support yet , I don't know why ,
and did you finished your dct ?
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      09-20-2018, 09:51 PM   #172
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Yes everything assembled.
At 1st had some issues with adaptation. Assuming due to having valve body disassembled, sensors cleaned etc.
Removed high flow filter and installed OEM filer.
Transmission shifts in automatic and manual up and down thru the gears.
Performed short test drive yesterday and today.
Currently monitoring pressure values, clutch positions etc
I will not release vehicle to client yet. Will drive it for a couple days and put more miles on the vehicle.
Want to make sure all is good.
I still do not know what the issue is as all I could find was normal build-up material at the gear rod sensor pickup locations.
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      09-21-2018, 05:18 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell1982 View Post
Yes everything assembled.
At 1st had some issues with adaptation. Assuming due to having valve body disassembled, sensors cleaned etc.
Removed high flow filter and installed OEM filer.
Transmission shifts in automatic and manual up and down thru the gears.
Performed short test drive yesterday and today.
Currently monitoring pressure values, clutch positions etc
I will not release vehicle to client yet. Will drive it for a couple days and put more miles on the vehicle.
Want to make sure all is good.
I still do not know what the issue is as all I could find was normal build-up material at the gear rod sensor pickup locations.
Did you meet fault
Like when switched from P to N only
Pressure faulty?
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      01-22-2019, 10:07 AM   #174
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Potential F10 M5 buyer here, been doing a ton of research and have settled on a 2014/15 leaning towards 15 model year. Did anyone ever have a resolution to this thread? Trying to get a sense for if this is a preventative maintenance item to add to my list.

Seems odd there's not much rhyme or reason for transmission issues causing the drivetrain malfunction.
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      01-30-2019, 05:52 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
Potential F10 M5 buyer here, been doing a ton of research and have settled on a 2014/15 leaning towards 15 model year. Did anyone ever have a resolution to this thread? Trying to get a sense for if this is a preventative maintenance item to add to my list.

Seems odd there's not much rhyme or reason for transmission issues causing the drivetrain malfunction.
If like me this is way over your head just buy a standard one with proven history and when the time comes for a dct fluid change will provide an opportunity to inspect and clean these sensors if necessary.
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      02-05-2019, 04:16 PM   #176
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I forgot to update my posts related to this topic.
The original faults returned.
Ended up pulling the transmission again and removed the clutch discs.
Compressed the discs together and found that there the small discs were warped.
SSP warrantied the discs for me "Great service with Kris as always"
And car is fixed 100%
Perfect shifts, no codes and over 2,000 miles on the transmission now.
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