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      01-14-2020, 01:39 PM   #1
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Oil Change time and plugs - help needed.

Good afternoon all. Im coming over here since there are more of you with M5s.

I have a 2014 M6 Gran Coupe and its time for an oil change.
Car has just over 20k miles on it, catless down pipes, RK intake, and BM3 stage 2 tune and I live in mostly warm coastal NC.

Done some reading but wanted to get opinions on type of oil and weight.

Should I move to using Liqui Molly?

Also, I should probably change spark plugs and coils also.... dose anyone have part numbers and where I should source these?

Thanks for the help.
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      01-14-2020, 02:07 PM   #2
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I use liquid moly 5w-40 for oil changes.
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      01-14-2020, 06:06 PM   #3
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In my 13 M5 when I moved to liquid molly I noticed my temp gauge would move a little higher than with the "bmw" oil, and was quick to fluctuate upwards on hard driving. I went to molly after a lot of reading and my bmw speed shop recommending it. But was always curious why temp would fluctuate and why it got hotter so quick than it ever did before.
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      01-15-2020, 12:32 PM   #4
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I like a 5w-40 for extra protection on the bearings. Troy Jeup swears by Red Line 5w-50 both for his builds as well as for those on the original motors; it's got a crazy high HTHS of something like 5.0.

Look up Ravenol VST 5w-40, look at the specs, and tell me if you find one that's better. (LM isn't it.) You can get it at Blauparts to your door here in the States.

BMW went to their 0w-30 in early 2015 from the 5w-30 they were previously using, but BMW LL01 says you can run up to 5w-40. Actually, with the sulfur taken out of US gasoline now via EPA Tier 3 Sulfur standards that began on 01.01.17, you can actually run a BMW LL04 if you wanted (half the sulfated ash content; ≤0.8 SA vs. ≤1.6 SA.) I might consider Ravenol Racing RUP 5w-40 if I can still even get it, for my next annual oil change. 0.8 SA and a 6.0 Noack with an HTHS of 3.9 - hard to beat that.

No more exceptions for small refineries beginning 01.01.20 - it's 10ppm sulfur in US content gasoline now just like it has been in Europe for years.

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production...20-webinar.pdf

Quote:
LL-04 (2005). API SM/SN. ACEA C3 (similar to A3). SAE 5W30, 5W40. The LL-04 oils have been greatly misunderstood in the past but this is now in greater demand. Most LL-04 oils are intended for Diesels, although it was also approved for gas engines in Europe and other world markets. BMW never certified LL-04 for the US (see next paragraph). Diesel oil has long been valued by engine builders and tuners because of its higher levels of ZDDP and higher HTHS ratings, both are excellent indicators of engine protection at higher temperatures. LL-04 also has a lower SAPS value which is good news for direct-injection engines (all BMW turbo engines since 2007). You won't find Genuine BMW LL-04 sold here but Red Line Euro-Series oil is produced around this spec.

As part of the efforts to make engine oil more environmentally friendly, the US EPA required ZDDP levels to be reduced in gasoline oil. However, Diesel oil was exempt from this ZDDP reduction. BMW never certified LL-04 for the US market because a) there weren't many Diesels for sale here, b) it was incompatible with the high amounts of sulfur and Ethanol in US fuel. However, since 2014 our gasoline more closely matches European sulfur levels and interest in LL-04 has increased. LL-04 and LL-01 are interchangeable/compatible but LL-04 is preferred for its higher ZDDP and low SAPS. Food for thought: the official BMW Motorsport oil recommendation for the M4 GT4 race car is a LL-04 spec oil. Our race team uses Red Line Euro Series 5W40.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/
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      01-15-2020, 04:11 PM   #5
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One of my fav topics again!

My thoughts:

1. Use any but the BMW oil.

2. Use a good quality brand (e.g. Total, LM, Motul, etc.).

3. Ensure you drain the old oil for at least 30 minutes (BMW SAs told me they do it only for 10 minutes). Do this at least the first time you change to a different weight.

3. Use a good weight oil 30w is what BMW uses, most tuners / engine builders say you need to use 50w or 60w.

I personally use Motul 5w 40 (this was offered at a good deal just when I wanted to make the switch) - its LL01 per BMW requirements and since my car is in warranty I am going by their brochure of recommended oil weights.

I change my oil every 4500 miles (Note that I do not track my car). I use OEM spark plugs but change it every 20,000 miles. I believe BMW intervals are 30,000 or higher. My car is mechanically bone stock and I have only changed it once as I am yet to cross the 25,000 mile marker.

Again, anything but the BMW oil will be an upgrade, once you pick the one you like, its important that you stick to it. Not all BMW shops will allow you to use the weight / brand of your choice.

You have a bigger spectrum to choose given your proximity to warmer climate.

Good luck!
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      01-15-2020, 10:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pTron View Post
Again, anything but the BMW oil will be an upgrade, once you pick the one you like, its important that you stick to it. Not all BMW shops will allow you to use the weight / brand of your choice.

Good luck!
Why stick to the same? Isn't it okay to switch viscosity from time to time depending driving habits or temperature variations?
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      01-17-2020, 10:42 AM   #7
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You can.

I follow it as advised to me by several, incl. some of my close pit-crew friends. I stick to it and see the 2-3 reputed tuner shops on the west coast and here in the northeast follow it.

It may well be a myth as there is no scientific research to support it.
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      01-19-2020, 05:14 AM   #8
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My car only has 20k miles on it, do I need to change my ignition coils?
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      01-19-2020, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55 Bulldog View Post
My car only has 20k miles on it, do I need to change my ignition coils?
unless you're getting a misfire or codes, I'd leave the coils alone at the current mileage. 40-60k, yea maybe.

5w40 should be fine, I'm in Raleigh so a little less temperate than Wilmington but I keep it in the garage.
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      01-19-2020, 09:22 AM   #10
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Also, LM is fine, I think that's what most of us use; you should also consider getting a blackstone oil analysis to get a baseline for rod bearings. From there, change oil ever 3-5k, compare blackstone reports to your baseline and you should be fine. If there's an anomaly, blackstone will tell you and you can take precautionary action. RB's on this car should be around $3500 or so.
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      01-20-2020, 06:07 AM   #11
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Service guy up at the BMW dealership said to run 0W30 ?
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      01-20-2020, 06:34 AM   #12
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Only 0W30 is what's recommended by Bmw here..used to be 5W30.
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      01-20-2020, 06:59 AM   #13
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Yeah, they told me, you could run pretty much any high quality 0W30 and would be fine but stick with 0W30.
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      01-20-2020, 08:28 AM   #14
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Ive been running 0w40 in everything for years. I was told by my tuner the other day they use 15w50.
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      01-20-2020, 02:30 PM   #15
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I switched to Liqui Moly 2331 Leichtlauf High Tech 5-40 and add 1.5 cans of their Mos2 additive in each oil change and never looked back. I use this for all of my vehicles now, IMHO BMW's 0-30 recommendation is for mileage only, it does nothing for longevity.

When I made the switch, I noticed immediate improvement in "operational smoothness"... hard to quantify but you will notice a smoother idle and through the rpm band.

But don't just take my word for it, here are pics from my N63 powered X5 with over 150K on it. I took it down to do the valve seals & decarbonize as well as do a mild port and polish but as you can see, the cam journals and and cylinder walls look excellent for this many miles.
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