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      09-28-2020, 09:35 PM   #1
thxbuff2001
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Clutch Delay Valve removal MT

Anyone has been able to remove the clutch delay valve on our F10 MT M5.
The switch from 1st to second is really annoying especially on slow speed/startup in SportPlus.
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      09-29-2020, 01:23 AM   #2
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I've done this on my F13 - I did it and also had a Rogue SSK installed, probably one of the best combinations I've done on this car besides maybe the KW H/A/S in terms of improving tangible feeling when driving the car.

You won't regret it, even if it is a bit of a pain in the ass.
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      09-29-2020, 06:48 AM   #3
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I believe technician117 has done this, I haven't had the chance to figure it out myself yet.
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      09-29-2020, 07:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Frost View Post
I've done this on my F13 - I did it and also had a Rogue SSK installed, probably one of the best combinations I've done on this car besides maybe the KW H/A/S in terms of improving tangible feeling when driving the car.

You won't regret it, even if it is a bit of a pain in the ass.
Do you have a link or directions? What did u use for the delay valve replacement? More info appreciated.
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      09-29-2020, 09:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thxbuff2001 View Post
Do you have a link or directions? What did u use for the delay valve replacement? More info appreciated.
I didn't do it myself, but it's pretty standard stuff. We have the same manual transmission that's on many other BMWs. You buy the modified valve, bleed the system, and install it. Install is nothing special AFAIK.
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      09-29-2020, 09:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Frost View Post
I didn't do it myself, but it's pretty standard stuff. We have the same manual transmission that's on many other BMWs. You buy the modified valve, bleed the system, and install it. Install is nothing special AFAIK.
What valve did you use? I have time next week, I try to do it.
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      09-29-2020, 09:55 PM   #7
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This write up perfectly explains why my e39 m5 is smoother than my f10 m5. They said bmw removed the cdv on my e39 m5 but they kept it on the regular e39.

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6562
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      09-30-2020, 06:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thxbuff2001 View Post
This write up perfectly explains why my e39 m5 is smoother than my f10 m5. They said bmw removed the cdv on my e39 m5 but they kept it on the regular e39.

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6562
Correct. The E39 M5 never had a CDV unlike all other models of the time (save maybe the M3).

For the F10, spend the money on the modified valve if you like, but I just removed it and reinstalled the line. There is plenty of "length" in the hose to make up for there not being a valve in place. Bleed the line and you're GTG.
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      10-01-2020, 02:59 PM   #9
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If someone does this, please take pictures. This seems like a mod I would like to do asap. I always thought the first gear clutch takeup seemed a bit vague, now I know why.
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      10-01-2020, 05:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullpoints View Post
If someone does this, please take pictures. This seems like a mod I would like to do asap. I always thought the first gear clutch takeup seemed a bit vague, now I know why.
People have done it posted in youtube. I know I can do it but I dont have a high lift.
I scheduled it next week with a mechanic.
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      10-01-2020, 06:47 PM   #11
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Thats awesome, please let us know if you feel a substantial difference next week!
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      10-02-2020, 11:16 AM   #12
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In all seriousness, I just start in second all the time. Did it with my Audi S4 that I ordered new in '13 and drove the last seven years before my '16 F10 I bought at the beginning of this year. Would be interested in hearing more about this but would need to find an independent to do it. Original warranty runs out in 500 miles (or two months) and CPO is next year. Have only heard good things
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      10-04-2020, 01:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santamonica00 View Post
In all seriousness, I just start in second all the time. Did it with my Audi S4 that I ordered new in '13 and drove the last seven years before my '16 F10 I bought at the beginning of this year. Would be interested in hearing more about this but would need to find an independent to do it. Original warranty runs out in 500 miles (or two months) and CPO is next year. Have only heard good things
It's not just about starting in gear and slipping from a stop, it's also between shifts too. For as easy as it is, and as inexpensive, totally worth it.
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      10-04-2020, 02:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Frost View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by santamonica00 View Post
In all seriousness, I just start in second all the time. Did it with my Audi S4 that I ordered new in '13 and drove the last seven years before my '16 F10 I bought at the beginning of this year. Would be interested in hearing more about this but would need to find an independent to do it. Original warranty runs out in 500 miles (or two months) and CPO is next year. Have only heard good things
It's not just about starting in gear and slipping from a stop, it's also between shifts too. For as easy as it is, and as inexpensive, totally worth it.
Assume that'll void any remaining warranty? Regardless, what does this usually cost at an independent?
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      10-05-2020, 12:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santamonica00 View Post
Assume that'll void any remaining warranty? Regardless, what does this usually cost at an independent?
I cannot imagine anyone even knowing it's done - the way I did it, I inserted a modified valve in place of the stock one (the modified one is a BMW valve), so even a tech looking at it cannot tell the difference.

Some people remove it altogether, which also works. I don't think your warranty is in jeopardy either way, but if you want to be safe do the modified valve.
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      10-05-2020, 08:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Frost View Post
I didn't do it myself, but it's pretty standard stuff. We have the same manual transmission that's on many other BMWs. You buy the modified valve, bleed the system, and install it. Install is nothing special AFAIK.
The bleed process is what's stopped me thus far. If somebody can walk me through that, I'll do the removal and document it for the rest of us.
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      10-06-2020, 05:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chauncey.Bishop View Post
The bleed process is what's stopped me thus far. If somebody can walk me through that, I'll do the removal and document it for the rest of us.
It's the same as any clutch slave bleeding. Reservoir is shared with the brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave. If you're quick with the part change/part removal, not much fluid will leak anyway.

The method I've used is a "soda pop" bottle (that's been cleaned - I've been bleeding brakes with it for years) with a hose resting on the bottom and attaching to the bleeder. Keep about an inch of brake fluid in the bottom to create an air lock. Air bubbles get pushed out while bleeding but no air gets pulled back in when releasing. Open the bleeder and pump the clutch using your hand... it will probably get stuck to the floor. Repeat a bunch of times, close the bleeder, pump up the clutch pedal and check feel. Repeat 2-3 more times, keeping an eye on the reservoir level and at your bottle for fill level and also to look for air bubbles coming out. Once you don't see air, it's probably good to go. There isn't much capacity in the system, so it really shouldn't take much to bleed it out. It's just that sometimes air can get trapped because it's hard to generate pressure to move things along when the bleeder is open. A power brake bleeder probably works well here, I don't have one to try though.
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      10-06-2020, 12:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
It's the same as any clutch slave bleeding. Reservoir is shared with the brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave. If you're quick with the part change/part removal, not much fluid will leak anyway.

The method I've used is a "soda pop" bottle (that's been cleaned - I've been bleeding brakes with it for years) with a hose resting on the bottom and attaching to the bleeder. Keep about an inch of brake fluid in the bottom to create an air lock. Air bubbles get pushed out while bleeding but no air gets pulled back in when releasing. Open the bleeder and pump the clutch using your hand... it will probably get stuck to the floor. Repeat a bunch of times, close the bleeder, pump up the clutch pedal and check feel. Repeat 2-3 more times, keeping an eye on the reservoir level and at your bottle for fill level and also to look for air bubbles coming out. Once you don't see air, it's probably good to go. There isn't much capacity in the system, so it really shouldn't take much to bleed it out. It's just that sometimes air can get trapped because it's hard to generate pressure to move things along when the bleeder is open. A power brake bleeder probably works well here, I don't have one to try though.
Did you end up replacing or removing it?

Also, did the clutch feel mushy or extremely soft thereafter? Does it change the clutch feel in any way?
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      10-08-2020, 05:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGTVinny View Post
Did you end up replacing or removing it?

Also, did the clutch feel mushy or extremely soft thereafter? Does it change the clutch feel in any way?
Removed it. Clutch felt the same as usual. A delay valve does not change the characteristics of the hydraulic system in terms of feel. It just slows the movement of fluid. Pedal effort does not change.
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      10-08-2020, 08:44 PM   #20
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CDV only affects the engagement rate. It prevents "dumping the clutch".
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      10-14-2020, 03:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thxbuff2001 View Post
People have done it posted in youtube. I know I can do it but I dont have a high lift.
I scheduled it next week with a mechanic.
Any update on this? Did you end up getting it removed? Curious to hear your impressions on if it's noticeable. Thank you!
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      10-14-2020, 10:40 PM   #22
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Havent done it yet. Got busy with work. I plan just to do it myself next week.
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