10-23-2020, 11:39 AM | #23 |
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One big piece of advice from personal experience - try to get a 2014 or later model. Avoid the earlier 2013's pre-refresh. I leased a 2013 then later bought a 2014 and there's a definite improvement in reliability. Neither model was/is my daily driver. My 2013 was a 50/50 daily driver - I had a VW CC that I drove to work & the M5 was for everything else but let me tell you - the 2013 M5 drank oil like crazy. I was getting low oil warning readings regularly and had to add a quart of oil every 2K miles. In year 3 my turbos broke - luckily covered under warranty but that was a $20K replacement bill that would've killed me. My 2014 by contrast has been trouble free. Not once have I had a low oil warning. I've done some mods like adding a Meisterschaft exhaust + downpipes, BM3 S2 tune (removed later for personal preference reasons). I cracked my charge pipes because after I added the downpipes and tune, I was an idiot and revved the car super hard on a cold start to impress some people but that was 100% on me. Otherwise the 2014 model has been bullet proof. I take the car out for weekend drives and love it.
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10-23-2020, 03:26 PM | #24 | |
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10-23-2020, 04:19 PM | #25 | |
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11-02-2020, 08:54 PM | #26 |
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I ended up picking one up from the auction. It had been sitting for almost a year (recovered theft) and needed a few parts to get it fully running again. Overall, it depends on you. I don't care much for resale and plan on keeping the car, hence why I went the auction route. It does also depend on your financial situation!
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11-14-2020, 09:55 PM | #27 |
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13s are not so good. oil pump, fuel pump, turbo line leaks, valves freeze, bearings go out. burn 1qt oil per 1k miles. 0w-30 isnt good oil for it, and bmw started using it in 15/16 i think.
But if you're lucky and find one somebody cared about and put 5w40 in it every 3000 miles instead of 0w30 oil every 10k miles is an important thing too. it really is a gamble I believe you can tell how much someone cared about it by the condition of the interior. Nice lci's are over 40grand though. the values actually not changed in 2 years. LCi, led's, and mileage is king for the value, then color & condition. nobody wants the pre LCi. bc of the issues, the old headlights, and the very ugly steering wheel |
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12-06-2020, 01:50 PM | #28 |
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Drives: F10 M5 Comp 6-spd
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If you buy one, you will love it. Absolutely spectacular car in every way. Buy the newest one you can afford, but should you find a really clean and lived early car don't pass it up either. The above poster mentioned interior condition being an indicator of how it was treated-very true statement IMO.
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12-06-2020, 05:40 PM | #29 |
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..... And the front air dam. If you can find a car with miles on it that has a front air dam in good shape, that's a careful owner and a well cared-for car. A car with less miles but a front air dam that looks like crap..... not the kind of owner to buy a car from.
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12-08-2020, 11:50 AM | #30 |
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I got my 14 with 40kish on the clock for 30k in May. A few chips in the paint but no deal breakers. DCT, B&O, comfort access, competition package and I was able to code in the antidazzle feature they disabled......I absolutely love my car. I only did a muffler delete and a few appearance mods. I'm probably gonna sell it after about a year or 2.......I want to flash it but I don't want to be on the hook for engine repairs. I may look into a F90 or get CTSV3 and call it a day. Awesome car though.....if it wasn't for fear of breaking and repairing something I would've flashed it, wheels etc.
I barely drive my car as is so it feels plenty fast to me. |
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