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      03-20-2020, 03:58 AM   #1
yoogene
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Sooo I finally gathered up all my gear and found the time to do an oil / air filter change amidst all the forced time away from the office. Car is currently sitting at 48,xxx KMs or roughly 30k Miles, and the previous service was done at 41,xxx KMs, or 25.5k Miles. Car had burned a quart by 47,000 KMs, so i felt it was due.

Purchased 2 x 5qt jugs of Liqui Moly 5w-40, a Winix oil filter and DNA motoring air filters from Amazon. Also got an extra 1qt Liqui Moly 5w-40 as the backup oil in the trunk of the "low oil" light comes back, but hopefully I won't need it.

I also picked up the suggested oil filter removal cap, which took me a while to figure out how it worked, as it was an extremely snug fit on the oil filter housing.

I took my time, got the car on a 4 post, and proceeded to drain the oil. After a lot of unnecessary torque, I got the oil filter off, and managed to get oil everywhere. This was reminiscent of my old b6 a4 with the 1.8T that would spill oil everywhere whenever you removed the oil filter. Any tips of the trade for keeping the removal clean is appreciated!!

I raised the front of the car from the jack points with a middle hydro jack and pulled the remaining 1-1.5 qts of oil from the oil coolers. All said, I still let the oil drain for 45 min and until the oil came out at a very slow drip.

Replaced the oil filter and crush washers and buttoned everything up from the bottom, but still managed to have some oil drip on the floor. The skid plate appears to be catching and releasing any remaining oil the spilled over from the oil filter, as I keep getting continued dripage after getting home. I'm going to continue monitoring this as I hope this isn't an actual leak from the filter or the drain.

Finally got to the top of the engine, and spent 30 minutes fighting the T20 torx screws until I realized the whole housing was mounted with one t20 torx off to the side. After that, installation was a snap and the car feels much quieter with the new oil and filters in place. Going to give it a romp tomorrow after checking the oil seepage and make sure everything is good to go.
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      03-20-2020, 04:04 AM   #2
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To add, I also planned to pull off my wheels and do a deep cleaning of the wheel barrels, but the lug studs were on stupid tight. I would have thought the BMW service center would have properly torqued the bolts, but it took a high hp impact gun to pull off the bolts. The unfortunate piece was the wheel lock; it was on there so tight that I ended up destroying it after the second wheel. I've ordered the new keys and a new set of standard bolts, as I hate dealing with wheel keys and this very issue. I'm not very concerned with someone trying to steal the wheels, as they'd have to put in a crap ton of effort to get these things off.
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      03-20-2020, 06:09 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoogene View Post
Sooo I finally gathered up all my gear and found the time to do an oil / air filter change amidst all the forced time away from the office. Car is currently sitting at 48,xxx KMs or roughly 30k Miles, and the previous service was done at 41,xxx KMs, or 25.5k Miles. Car had burned a quart by 47,000 KMs, so i felt it was due.

Purchased 2 x 5qt jugs of Liqui Moly 5w-40, a Winix oil filter and DNA motoring air filters from Amazon. Also got an extra 1qt Liqui Moly 5w-40 as the backup oil in the trunk of the "low oil" light comes back, but hopefully I won't need it.

I also picked up the suggested oil filter removal cap, which took me a while to figure out how it worked, as it was an extremely snug fit on the oil filter housing.

I took my time, got the car on a 4 post, and proceeded to drain the oil. After a lot of unnecessary torque, I got the oil filter off, and managed to get oil everywhere. This was reminiscent of my old b6 a4 with the 1.8T that would spill oil everywhere whenever you removed the oil filter. Any tips of the trade for keeping the removal clean is appreciated!!

I raised the front of the car from the jack points with a middle hydro jack and pulled the remaining 1-1.5 qts of oil from the oil coolers. All said, I still let the oil drain for 45 min and until the oil came out at a very slow drip.

Replaced the oil filter and crush washers and buttoned everything up from the bottom, but still managed to have some oil drip on the floor. The skid plate appears to be catching and releasing any remaining oil the spilled over from the oil filter, as I keep getting continued dripage after getting home. I'm going to continue monitoring this as I hope this isn't an actual leak from the filter or the drain.

Finally got to the top of the engine, and spent 30 minutes fighting the T20 torx screws until I realized the whole housing was mounted with one t20 torx off to the side. After that, installation was a snap and the car feels much quieter with the new oil and filters in place. Going to give it a romp tomorrow after checking the oil seepage and make sure everything is good to go.
Looks like a bit of work that service you did and I know there is a trick someone used to 'funnel' the filter oil when you undo it so that it goes straight into the catch container, can't place who it was tho.
It's worth getting a torque wrench and actually doing the lug nuts up yourself at 102 lb ft, a few posters have complained that theirs were over tightened by way too much torque and especially lock nuts ruined by forceful removal.
Wanted to ask,did you hire the ramp out as that would be more preferable to those who want to do a service themselves than crawling under a nearly 2 ton car on jacks etc.
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      03-20-2020, 01:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoogene View Post
Sooo I finally gathered up all my gear and found the time to do an oil / air filter change amidst all the forced time away from the office. Car is currently sitting at 48,xxx KMs or roughly 30k Miles, and the previous service was done at 41,xxx KMs, or 25.5k Miles. Car had burned a quart by 47,000 KMs, so i felt it was due.

Purchased 2 x 5qt jugs of Liqui Moly 5w-40, a Winix oil filter and DNA motoring air filters from Amazon. Also got an extra 1qt Liqui Moly 5w-40 as the backup oil in the trunk of the "low oil" light comes back, but hopefully I won't need it.

I also picked up the suggested oil filter removal cap, which took me a while to figure out how it worked, as it was an extremely snug fit on the oil filter housing.

I took my time, got the car on a 4 post, and proceeded to drain the oil. After a lot of unnecessary torque, I got the oil filter off, and managed to get oil everywhere. This was reminiscent of my old b6 a4 with the 1.8T that would spill oil everywhere whenever you removed the oil filter. Any tips of the trade for keeping the removal clean is appreciated!!

I raised the front of the car from the jack points with a middle hydro jack and pulled the remaining 1-1.5 qts of oil from the oil coolers. All said, I still let the oil drain for 45 min and until the oil came out at a very slow drip.

Replaced the oil filter and crush washers and buttoned everything up from the bottom, but still managed to have some oil drip on the floor. The skid plate appears to be catching and releasing any remaining oil the spilled over from the oil filter, as I keep getting continued dripage after getting home. I'm going to continue monitoring this as I hope this isn't an actual leak from the filter or the drain.

Finally got to the top of the engine, and spent 30 minutes fighting the T20 torx screws until I realized the whole housing was mounted with one t20 torx off to the side. After that, installation was a snap and the car feels much quieter with the new oil and filters in place. Going to give it a romp tomorrow after checking the oil seepage and make sure everything is good to go.
Where is the drain plug for the oil cooler? Does the dealer normally drain that too? How much oil did you need to refill given you drained the oil cooler too. I did my 1st oil change this weekend and it took a full 9 quarts without draining the oil cooler but I did let it drain for 30 minutes or so until it dripped.
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      03-20-2020, 01:43 PM   #5
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Thanks for the thread...will be doing this for my first change soon.
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      03-20-2020, 01:57 PM   #6
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Which oil filter removal cap do you used?
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      03-20-2020, 01:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Passi-M5 View Post
Which oil filter removal cap do you used?
I got this one Ibetter 86.4mm 16 Flutes Oil Filter Wrench for BMW with 86mm Cartridge Style Filter Housing Caps, Oil Filter Housing Cap Removal Tool to Change Oil, Oil Filter Socket Wrench Kit for BMW (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYCBF8S..._cjrDEbZ7G17Z7
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      03-20-2020, 02:42 PM   #8
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Here's the one I got and it worked great
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regarding the oil mess, unscrew the filter just enough so the oil starts to slowly drain into the pan. Wait about 5 minutes and it will pretty much stop. Then you can finish unscrewing the filter and if you're careful, can lower it without any of the remaining oil sloshing out down your arm or making a mess on the belly pan.
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      03-20-2020, 02:47 PM   #9
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For over-tightened lug nuts, nothing works better than a 1/2 breaker bar and a pipe. Leverage is your friend! Just used those to loosen the belt tensioner on the Armada. Very versatile!
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      03-21-2020, 04:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ickdeep View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Passi-M5 View Post
Which oil filter removal cap do you used?
I got this one Ibetter 86.4mm 16 Flutes Oil Filter Wrench for BMW with 86mm Cartridge Style Filter Housing Caps, Oil Filter Housing Cap Removal Tool to Change Oil, Oil Filter Socket Wrench Kit for BMW (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYCBF8S..._cjrDEbZ7G17Z7
Thank you. I have to look for a filter key in Germany since I come from Germany. I will go on the search
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      03-21-2020, 07:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Looks like a bit of work that service you did and I know there is a trick someone used to 'funnel' the filter oil when you undo it so that it goes straight into the catch container, can't place who it was tho.
It's worth getting a torque wrench and actually doing the lug nuts up yourself at 102 lb ft, a few posters have complained that theirs were over tightened by way too much torque and especially lock nuts ruined by forceful removal.
Wanted to ask,did you hire the ramp out as that would be more preferable to those who want to do a service themselves than crawling under a nearly 2 ton car on jacks etc.

Appreciate the tips! Luckily i watched a youtube clip of Bob Mac spilling oil everywhere, and it prepped me for the inevitable. I like the idea below of going slow to let the oil flow out a little before releasing it from the catch.

The lock nuts are my biggest pain; if i can't get them off with a new key, then i have to find a shop that will be able to take them off. Unbelievable the amount of torque they put on them.

As for the lift, I went to the Auto Hobby Shop here in the Army Garrison and rented a stall for $5/hr. Luckily they weren't busy, so i had free run of the place!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbellz View Post
Where is the drain plug for the oil cooler? Does the dealer normally drain that too? How much oil did you need to refill given you drained the oil cooler too. I did my 1st oil change this weekend and it took a full 9 quarts without draining the oil cooler but I did let it drain for 30 minutes or so until it dripped.
It didn't have a separate oil drain plug, but rather, if you allow the oil pan to drain for the full hour, you'll get all the oil out of the coolers as well. I just tilted the front end up in hopes of expediting that process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by texsn95 View Post
Here's the one I got and it worked great
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regarding the oil mess, unscrew the filter just enough so the oil starts to slowly drain into the pan. Wait about 5 minutes and it will pretty much stop. Then you can finish unscrewing the filter and if you're careful, can lower it without any of the remaining oil sloshing out down your arm or making a mess on the belly pan.
The sounds like a plan! I'm definitely taking note of this for the next time i do the oil change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by texsn95 View Post
For over-tightened lug nuts, nothing works better than a 1/2 breaker bar and a pipe. Leverage is your friend! Just used those to loosen the belt tensioner on the Armada. Very versatile!
Indeed! Unfortunately, my problem was with the wheel locks; the wheel key deformed after trying to unscrew the rear wheel, and now i'm stuck with these wheels until the new key and bolts arrive. I hate these service center knuckleheads that just jam the lugs with a impact gun until it almost seizes. ugh.
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      03-21-2020, 08:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ickdeep View Post
I got this one Ibetter 86.4mm 16 Flutes Oil Filter Wrench for BMW with 86mm Cartridge Style Filter Housing Caps, Oil Filter Housing Cap Removal Tool to Change Oil, Oil Filter Socket Wrench Kit for BMW (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYCBF8S..._cjrDEbZ7G17Z7
Actually picked up this same tool based on your recommendation! I thought I bought the wrong one until I realized that it needed to be very snug for it to catch the filter cap. Pretty much followed all your oil change guidelines as well!
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      04-01-2020, 04:49 PM   #13
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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800006~bav/

This is the filter tool I use. It works great.
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