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      02-01-2019, 12:29 PM   #1
technician117
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Standard battery replacement

My 2013 M5 is due for a battery. The cold weather in the Northeast is revealing weakness in my (assumed) original battery. I keep getting the "charge battery" message.

1.) What is everyone using for an "OE like" replacement battery? I'm not interested in a lightweight battery, etc. Just a direct replacement.

2.) Do our batteries need coding like the old e60's? or can I just swap it out?
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      02-01-2019, 02:56 PM   #2
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I just went to bmw and yes it needs to be coded

I had a aftermarket battery before and it doesnt last as long as the bmw one
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      02-02-2019, 09:58 AM   #3
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Bmws are finicky with aftermarket batteries. They also need to be coded. Some have said it depends on battery if it needs coding. On my 2008 x5 I replaced it with genuine bmw battery myself and didn't get it coded. Then I started having all sorts of electrical issues. Just pay the stealer and get it done to be safe and not have a headache on this. I will never do this to a bmw again. My issues may be unrelated to battery on my older x5, but on my M5 I'm not chancing it when the time comes.
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      02-04-2019, 09:54 AM   #4
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I went with an aftermarket replacement and haven't coded it (yet). The new battery works fine and having the new battery stopped all my 'charge battery' messages. Fortunately the coding can be done via iCarly if you have it. I simply skipped out considering I eventually intend on coding the rest of the modules in the car and will do them all at once.
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      02-04-2019, 12:19 PM   #5
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Thanks guys. I'm the type of person that avoids the dealer at all costs, but I'm considering doing it for this operation. My Dad's e60 has all kinds of electrical problems, who knows how many, or if any, have been related to the battery, but still.

Also, an * to the comment that all BMW's are sensitive to batteries... I would counter by saying all newer BMW's that could be true. I've only ever run aftermarket batteries in my e39 with no problems and typically a solid 5+ years of use.
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      02-04-2019, 12:30 PM   #6
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I had my original battery replaced last year at around 50k miles. I replaced it with a worldpac battery which includes a 5 year warranty no questions asked. It did need to be coded though so that things like comfort access would work. Had it coded at Rogue Engineering. It's not a cheap battery replacement, i believe it ran me $350.....So far so good!
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      02-04-2019, 06:13 PM   #7
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I had to replace my battery in my 11' E90 M3. I replaced it with an OE battery and coded it myself using the Carly app. If you know someone with the Carly adapter or bimmercode, they should be able to code it easily.
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      02-05-2019, 12:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///3dkn View Post
I had to replace my battery in my 11' E90 M3. I replaced it with an OE battery and coded it myself using the Carly app. If you know someone with the Carly adapter or bimmercode, they should be able to code it easily.
Interesting. It might be worth buying the Carly App myself. I assume BMW will charge more than $65 to install and code a battery anyway! Plus having the Bluetooth adapter in the glove box anytime I need it will be convenient. I currently have ISTA D on a laptop but I don't keep the laptop in the car as I use it for other things. You can't program with ISTA D either. I'd need ISTA P and it's a massive file.
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      02-08-2019, 10:48 AM   #9
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I also have a 13 and was getting the same message around 70k miles. I finally replaced it at 80k miles. It would charge the battery at long drives but didn’t want to take anymore chances.

I would ask around at decent shops and they would say it didn’t needed to be registered/coded. Then reputable shops said it did needto be coded. I’m forget the exact reason for the coding but the way my shop did it was it kept all the factory settings. Depending who you’d asked they’d recommend any ol battery, like interstate per say. After doing more research you definitely want to get an AGM Battery (Absorbent Glass Mat). This is the OEM standard of battery because we need all the power to keep our auxiliary stuff going on our BMWs. I went to a local bmw shop and to my suprise paid $253.

Of course I didn’t get it replaced at the shop. I didn’t even ask for a quote lol. I went to a reputable shop who knew how to register a battery and I believed I paid an hour shop time plus oil change. So came out to like $133 bucks labor for both.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
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      02-10-2019, 08:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YanoM5 View Post
I also have a 13 and was getting the same message around 70k miles. I finally replaced it at 80k miles. It would charge the battery at long drives but didnít want to take anymore chances.

I would ask around at decent shops and they would say it didnít needed to be registered/coded. Then reputable shops said it did needto be coded. Iím forget the exact reason for the coding but the way my shop did it was it kept all the factory settings. Depending who youíd asked theyíd recommend any ol battery, like interstate per say. After doing more research you definitely want to get an AGM Battery (Absorbent Glass Mat). This is the OEM standard of battery because we need all the power to keep our auxiliary stuff going on our BMWs. I went to a local bmw shop and to my suprise paid $253.

Of course I didnít get it replaced at the shop. I didnít even ask for a quote lol. I went to a reputable shop who knew how to register a battery and I believed I paid an hour shop time plus oil change. So came out to like $133 bucks labor for both.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for the insight. Since it warmed up I stopped getting messages. I'll plan to buy a BMW battery and install myself. I'll code it with the Carly app I think. That's the software I'm leaning towards picking up.
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      02-18-2019, 03:20 AM   #11
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About a month ago I had to replace the battery for my M6 and I hope the info below can help someone wants to do it themselves.

BMW m5/6 use AGM batteries. In the US, there are 3 manufactures that make majority/all AGM batteries or car batteries in general. Those are East Penn behind the well known Deka brand, Exide and Johnson Controls. All/most battery brands are a relabel from one of those manufactures.

From 2012-2013 M5s were using a 92 AH battery but couldn't supply enough power to last so BMW replaced with a 105 AH to resolve the issue. After 2013, I believe m5/m6 all come with 105 AH batteries.
The link below is from BMW of South Atlanta. It shows replacement batteries are either from East Penn or Exide
https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...rimLevel=11862

So with all the facts presented, let’s get to the next step. Where to buy it?

Like I said earlier most battery brands are just a relabel from one of those manufactures. Example, Super Start Platinum from Orielys autoparts is actually East Penn battery. I gave that example because this auto store is widely available in most states and the cheapest in prices. batteriesplus.com resales East Penn AGM batteries, too. If you look up a battery brand from your local places and search it online. Most likely it's from one of those manufactures. It looks like BMW uses East Peen and Exide for supplying batteries in the US. Furthermore, you can go to the website of those two companies and see the specs. you’ll see it matches exactly from CCA to the physical measurements and weights.

I have seen a lot of posts about how you need to use only BMW batteries or else electronic will fail. Not sure where people get that information or just their opinions without facts. A battery is a battery, as long as you have the correct specs, and from a quality manufacture, it should be the same. In addition, BMW isn’t manufacturing their own batteries. They have suppliers providing them with batteries. More than likely East Penn and Exide are their suppliers in the U.S.

I typed this long message because I saw so many misinformation out there, and I hope this will help someone without getting ripped off from BMW dealers. I don’t hate BMW dealers, I use their services from time to time, but the battery service is just a rip off. They want 500+ to replace a battery that cost less than 200 bucks from a retail store. I bet they bought it under 130 bucks a piece (guessing/opinion here).

Finally, how to replace it? Just replace it like any other cars with the exception you need to code it afterwards. It seems like it’s easier to stick with the same AH your car currently using so you don’t have to reprogram to a new AH.

Last edited by JC04; 02-18-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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      02-18-2019, 08:15 AM   #12
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@JCO4. thanks for stating what amperage per hour your new battery is.Some are saying they are coding etc but not what actual battery power to purchase for longer lasting life.
When its time to replace mine a 105AH is what's going in irrespective what's in there now.
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      02-18-2019, 12:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC04 View Post
About a month ago I had to replace the battery for my M6 and I hope the info below can help someone wants to do it themselves.

BMW m5/6 use AGM batteries. In the US, there are 3 manufactures that make majority/all AGM batteries or car batteries in general. Those are East Penn behind the well known Deka brand, Exide and Johnson Controls. All/most battery brands are a relabel from one of those manufactures.

From 2012-2013 M5s were using a 92 AH battery but couldn't supply enough power to last so BMW replaced with a 105 AH to resolve the issue. After 2013, I believe m5/m6 all come with 105 AH batteries.
The link below is from BMW of South Atlanta. It shows replacement batteries are either from East Penn or Exide
https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...rimLevel=11862

So with all the facts presented, letís get to the next step. Where to buy it?

Like I said earlier most battery brands are just a relabel from one of those manufactures. Example, Super Start Platinum from Orielys autoparts is actually East Penn battery. I gave that example because this auto store is widely available in most states and the cheapest in prices. batteriesplus.com resales East Penn AGM batteries, too. If you look up a battery brand from your local places and search it online. Most likely it's from one of those manufactures. It looks like BMW uses East Peen and Exide for supplying batteries in the US. Furthermore, you can go to the website of those two companies and see the specs. youíll see it matches exactly from CCA to the physical measurements and weights.

I have seen a lot of posts about how you need to use only BMW batteries or else electronic will fail. Not sure where people get that information or just their opinions without facts. A battery is a battery, as long as you have the correct specs, and from a quality manufacture, it should be the same. In addition, BMW isnít manufacturing their own batteries. They have suppliers providing them with batteries. More than likely East Penn and Exide are their suppliers in the U.S.

I typed this long message because I saw so many misinformation out there, and I hope this will help someone without getting ripped off from BMW dealers. I donít hate BMW dealers, I use their services from time to time, but the battery service is just a rip off. They want 500+ to replace a battery that cost less than 200 bucks from a retail store. I bet they bought it under 130 bucks a piece (guessing/opinion here).

Finally, how to replace it? Just replace it like any other cars with the exception you need to code it afterwards. It seems like itís easier to stick with the same AH your car currently using so you donít have to reprogram to a new AH.
Thank you. I did know about the 3 major manufacturers, but failed to consider that as of yet. As a side note, I learned that the battery that my e39 M5 uses can be bought from Advance Auto and is made in Germany. This isn't a AGM, but still interesting to note. You can use their crazy online shopping coupons and go pick up the battery in store. I think it ended up being only $100? after rebates, etc.

I appreciate the AH information. I wonder if my '13 still has the lower rated battery in it. Besides likely needed replacement anyway, this could be a reason I was seeing some symptoms.
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      02-18-2019, 06:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
My 2013 M5 is due for a battery. The cold weather in the Northeast is revealing weakness in my (assumed) original battery. I keep getting the "charge battery" message.

1.) What is everyone using for an "OE like" replacement battery? I'm not interested in a lightweight battery, etc. Just a direct replacement.

2.) Do our batteries need coding like the old e60's? or can I just swap it out?

I had the same issue as you have. My M6 gave me an increased battery discharge message after 2-3 days even after trickle charged overnight. I didn't want to get stuck with dead battery during subzero temperatures.

I read some of your replies and it looks like you already have ISTA D program. That's all you need to register a new same AH battery. You don't need ISTA P to program/code unless you want to change your battery AH. Example, from 92AH to 105AH. In addition, since you have ISTA D just hook it up and scan your car. It will tell you the battery AH it currently installed. Follow the instructions below to get the information about your current battery and register the new battery.

https://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569619


I bought my battery from Oreilys autoparts. The cheapest for an East Penn battery. I have the new battery for about a month and recently went on a trip for 9 days and left the car in subzero temperatures without the trickle charger connected. It started right up when I got home without any hesitation and no increased battery discharge message either. All my electronics still working 100% correctly.

Tips: Whatever you do when changing the battery, always disconnect the negative termination first before you messing with the positive terminal.

Last edited by JC04; 02-18-2019 at 06:29 PM.
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      02-19-2019, 12:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC04 View Post
I had the same issue as you have. My M6 gave me an increased battery discharge message after 2-3 days even after trickle charged overnight. I didn't want to get stuck with dead battery during subzero temperatures.

I read some of your replies and it looks like you already have ISTA D program. That's all you need to register a new same AH battery. You don't need ISTA P to program/code unless you want to change your battery AH. Example, from 92AH to 105AH. In addition, since you have ISTA D just hook it up and scan your car. It will tell you the battery AH it currently installed. Follow the instructions below to get the information about your current battery and register the new battery.

https://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569619


I bought my battery from Oreilys autoparts. The cheapest for an East Penn battery. I have the new battery for about a month and recently went on a trip for 9 days and left the car in subzero temperatures without the trickle charger connected. It started right up when I got home without any hesitation and no increased battery discharge message either. All my electronics still working 100% correctly.

Tips: Whatever you do when changing the battery, always disconnect the negative termination first before you messing with the positive terminal.
Ah OK, excellent. I'll have to check to see what I have before I go too far with anything. It's been fine the last few weeks, so I'm going to wait it out.

Appreciate the tip. I learned that one back in automotive college. I used to be a mechanic in my previous life...
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      02-24-2019, 04:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC04 View Post
About a month ago I had to replace the battery for my M6 and I hope the info below can help someone wants to do it themselves.

BMW m5/6 use AGM batteries. In the US, there are 3 manufactures that make majority/all AGM batteries or car batteries in general. Those are East Penn behind the well known Deka brand, Exide and Johnson Controls. All/most battery brands are a relabel from one of those manufactures.

From 2012-2013 M5s were using a 92 AH battery but couldn't supply enough power to last so BMW replaced with a 105 AH to resolve the issue. After 2013, I believe m5/m6 all come with 105 AH batteries.
The link below is from BMW of South Atlanta. It shows replacement batteries are either from East Penn or Exide
https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...rimLevel=11862

So with all the facts presented, letís get to the next step. Where to buy it?

Like I said earlier most battery brands are just a relabel from one of those manufactures. Example, Super Start Platinum from Orielys autoparts is actually East Penn battery. I gave that example because this auto store is widely available in most states and the cheapest in prices. batteriesplus.com resales East Penn AGM batteries, too. If you look up a battery brand from your local places and search it online. Most likely it's from one of those manufactures. It looks like BMW uses East Peen and Exide for supplying batteries in the US. Furthermore, you can go to the website of those two companies and see the specs. youíll see it matches exactly from CCA to the physical measurements and weights.

I have seen a lot of posts about how you need to use only BMW batteries or else electronic will fail. Not sure where people get that information or just their opinions without facts. A battery is a battery, as long as you have the correct specs, and from a quality manufacture, it should be the same. In addition, BMW isnít manufacturing their own batteries. They have suppliers providing them with batteries. More than likely East Penn and Exide are their suppliers in the U.S.

I typed this long message because I saw so many misinformation out there, and I hope this will help someone without getting ripped off from BMW dealers. I donít hate BMW dealers, I use their services from time to time, but the battery service is just a rip off. They want 500+ to replace a battery that cost less than 200 bucks from a retail store. I bet they bought it under 130 bucks a piece (guessing/opinion here).

Finally, how to replace it? Just replace it like any other cars with the exception you need to code it afterwards. It seems like itís easier to stick with the same AH your car currently using so you donít have to reprogram to a new AH.
I read your post and had a battery question. Is the 61-21-2-353-814 battery an AGM? Just curious about the correct trickle charger to use.. Thanks.
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      03-06-2019, 12:09 PM   #17
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Use the site below to confirm what you have. I use a NOCO g7200 charger to charge my battery. It handles all types of batteries.

https://www.realoem.com
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