[dragerboy]

Had my MOT today and had suspicions it would fail on handbrake and it did.

Now I never use my handbrake and since putting new rear discs and pads on(the shoes looked fine) I have to go through a fair number of clicks before much happens. It failed on efficiency which I'm guessing will be this. Plan to adjust tomorrow morning using the Pelicanparts guide.

The other reason it failed was brake fluid warning activated. Now I have reset the service thingy and this has gone but I still get red car on ramps and handbrake icon on in red which stays when I'm driving. I believe this to be linked with my front pad sensor as I have reset my front pads on the service indicator but it stays orange with dashes through the mileage. I have physically checked the brakes and they are fine with loads of life on the pads.

So presuming I adjust the handbrake in morning and it works better will the car fail having the red ramp/handbrake light service indicator showing??

[Dann]

If I remember correctly, you can adjust the handbrake by moving in reverse and pulling it on slowly.
Also use it to stop the car even now and again from slow speeds as it will keep the surfaces clean and help

[dragerboy]

Originally Posted by Dann

If I remember correctly, you can adjust the handbrake by moving in reverse and pulling it on slowly.
Also use it to stop the car even now and again from slow speeds as it will keep the surfaces clean and help

Strangely I read about the e9* having an automatic adjustment but it seems like an old wives tale and infact you need to rotate the adjusters behind each disc.

[russ9898]

Yeah, there is no way that the handbrake adjusts automatically. You definitely need to play with the adjusters, it's not a hard job particularly, just a pain in the arse

[rasa bmw]

the e9x has a spring loaded adjuster on the lever itself(under leather gaitor)this needs to be depressed while adjusting the little star wheels behind discs using locating holes on discs.my e46 has a nut as opposed to the spring type adjuster.

[dragerboy]

Well I've solved the warning lamp issue with a new sensor and Inpa(thank god I had that).

Then spent 3 hours adjusting each side, could not do it with wheel on at all. Felt like it was better so popped to the garage for a quick check and its basically still the same! So might try some more adjusting or buy some new shoes and start from scratch.

On the rollers when they test the 2 dials were just above 100 which I believe is piss poor!

[rasa bmw]

Originally Posted by dragerboy

Well I've solved the warning lamp issue with a new sensor and Inpa(thank god I had that).

Then spent 3 hours adjusting each side, could not do it with wheel on at all. Felt like it was better so popped to the garage for a quick check and its basically still the same! So might try some more adjusting or buy some new shoes and start from scratch.

On the rollers when they test the 2 dials were just above 100 which I believe is piss poor!

pointless trying to adjust handbrake without doing it from the lever under the gaitor.and the little star wheels behind discs..

[dragerboy]

Originally Posted by rasa bmw

pointless trying to adjust handbrake without doing it from the lever under the gaitor.and the little star wheels behind discs..

Yep thats how I did it and was still pointless lol

[dragerboy]

Just an update on this. I have managed to adjust them again and got better results so my car has now passed. Handbrake makes a few noises but at least it works.

Have managed to buy some Bosch brake shoes for £14 so will fit them over the next few weeks.

For anyone doing this job I would remove wheel and make sure you have hand brake released and lock in place.

Drivers side adjuster is at 11 o'clock and you flip it down to tighten.
Passenger side adjuster at 1 o'clock and you flip it up to tighten.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by dragerboy

Just an update on this. I have managed to adjust them again and got better results so my car has now passed. Handbrake makes a few noises but at least it works.

Have managed to buy some Bosch brake shoes for £14 so will fit them over the next few weeks.

For anyone doing this job I would remove wheel and make sure you have hand brake released and lock in place.

Drivers side adjuster is at 11 o'clock and you flip it down to tighten.
Passenger side adjuster at 1 o'clock and you flip it up to tighten.

I did mine and its so annoying, for me what's hard is getting the flat head screwdriver in the right place.. sometimes i thought i was adjusting and the realised my screwdriver was no where near -_-

What i did to help was remove the disc and adjust the pads so that when i put the discs back on i had a snug fit.. the pads beforehand where well off so i saved a lot of time doing that first. But despite having some tension it still doesnt hold the car.. when you did yours did you expand the shoes until the disc couldnt be moved and then back it off a little? And of so how much did you back it off by?

[dragerboy]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

I did mine and its so annoying, for me what's hard is getting the flat head screwdriver in the right place.. sometimes i thought i was adjusting and the realised my screwdriver was no where near -_-

What i did to help was remove the disc and adjust the pads so that when i put the discs back on i had a snug fit.. the pads beforehand where well off so i saved a lot of time doing that first. But despite having some tension it still doesnt hold the car.. when you did yours did you expand the shoes until the disc couldnt be moved and then back it off a little? And of so how much did you back it off by?

Yes agree its a tedious pain in the ass. I got them so I couldn't turn the disc by hand, then about 2-3 notches back so the disc moved but not freely. I didn't want to remove the disc and caliper as then I would have preferred to replace the shoes.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by dragerboy

Yes agree its a tedious pain in the ass. I got them so I couldn't turn the disc by hand, then about 2-3 notches back so the disc moved but not freely. I didn't want to remove the disc and caliper as then I would have preferred to replace the shoes.

See thats were i went wrong.. i did it so there was pretty much no friction otherwise i though the shoes would wear and MPG decrease.. i have a set of discs and pads in the boot so ill try it again tomorrow. Ill probably create a post for it but any opinion on the K&N air filter? I only paid £10 for it but hear mixed reviews.

[dragerboy]

Nothing wrong with a K&N filter. Doubt it will make much of a difference to a stock unit. That is another poop job to do a 330d lol.

[Andy198712]

My n57 is easy as any car to do the filter, depends which model you have, one with that tube filter looks a pig, mine is just an air box like any other

[rasa bmw]

just watch out when cleaning and oiling when its time to clean it..less is more when oiling a filter// maf sensor gets all fucked up

[dragerboy]

Originally Posted by Andy198712

My n57 is easy as any car to do the filter, depends which model you have, one with that tube filter looks a pig, mine is just an air box like any other

Yes much easier on yours. Its a pig on mine lol.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by rasa bmw

just watch out when cleaning and oiling when its time to clean it..less is more when oiling a filter// maf sensor gets all fucked up

Hmm.. see that's what concerns me a little bit. From what I've read it appears these K&N air filters have little to no impact, and I've read that with the way the engine works it will only suck in as much air as needed meaning again it has little to no affect by allowing more air through. I would like correcting any of the information I have read is incorrect, but given the points I've listed it worries me a little bit to put it in. The bog standard bosch air filter works fine and I have no issues with anything slipping through the filter or oil, on the other hand the K&N at the moment appears to have the upper hand because it's re-usable only requiring cleaning and oiling which is why I haven't jumped to put it in.

I am curious to see however if there are any noise differences between the two? I might create a video comparing the two when I get some K&N cleaner and oil.

It's slightly off topic, but with the MAF sensor, do you know how to reset just that in INPA? I was going to give it a clean but I don't want to reset every adaptation.

[rasa bmw]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hmm.. see that's what concerns me a little bit. From what I've read it appears these K&N air filters have little to no impact, and I've read that with the way the engine works it will only suck in as much air as needed meaning again it has little to no affect by allowing more air through. I would like correcting any of the information I have read is incorrect, but given the points I've listed it worries me a little bit to put it in. The bog standard bosch air filter works fine and I have no issues with anything slipping through the filter or oil, on the other hand the K&N at the moment appears to have the upper hand because it's re-usable only requiring cleaning and oiling which is why I haven't jumped to put it in.

I am curious to see however if there are any noise differences between the two? I might create a video comparing the two when I get some K&N cleaner and oil.

It's slightly off topic, but with the MAF sensor, do you know how to reset just that in INPA? I was going to give it a clean but I don't want to reset every adaptation.

paper filters work better than foam filters,its just that you have to throw away a paper one,,dervs do not need induction systems as much,,highly tuned ones maybe that have very high intake temps,,but on thewhole,,just stay with the normal filter,,most folk get a cais or group a filter for the noise,,but if we got a derv car,,then we never bought the car for noise anyway..